How I Taper Bore Cork Handles and Grips

Neptune · Aug-17-2007, 03:43 AM

tackle junkie asked: "Does it fit better"

Jose,

The fit is almost perfect because it is sets the stage for the next operation of boring the I.D. taper to match the taper of the rod blank. To do this, I use a boring tool that I made, and I will post a picture of it when I locate it. If you are old enough to remember the Comic Strip "Dagwood" - Well my garage is far more cluttered than Dagwood's closet. Lol! Meanwhile, the "not to scale" drawings below, will give you an idea of what it looks like and how it is used.

The first drawing shows the cork handle as it was made in the previous discussion. This handle is perfectly round and concentric with the center 1/4" diameter hole. The taper boring tool cuts the taper in several discrete steps, which are indexed to the 1/4" hole. The boring tool has a long extension which is also 1/4" in diameter. This extension must always be longer than the cork handle and it acts as a relatively precision centering guide, which keeps the boring cutters, (gray rectangles in the 2nd drawing) centered in the cork as the boring tool is pulled through the cork handle. These cutters are screwed onto the 1/4 threaded rod and can be positioned, length-wise, any place you so choose.

The white spaces in the last drawing are miniscule pockets where Rod Bond is squeezed into. The pockets look large in this "not to scale drawing" with an extreme taper. With real life rod tapers, the pockets are like 0.010" - 0.020" in height. If I had made the drawings to scale, you could not even see the pockets.

This tool is far more precise than the pull through tool currently being sold, because you can accurately locate the steps where you want them to be, whereas this can not be done with the commercial tool.

I hope this answers you question.

John Mantele

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jeffzou · Aug-17-2007, 09:29 AM

Hey John!

Two things:

1. I've seen John's garage and it's not as bad as he leads on.................uhh, well...........

2. Can I borrow that baby some time!!!

Very cool tool, I HATE boring cork. Have always had to do it by hand reamers and is not very accurate.

Great tip John!

Jeff

Quote:

Originally Posted by Neptune

tackle junkie asked: "Does it fit better"

Jose,

The fit is almost perfect because it is sets the stage for the next operation of boring the I.D. taper to match the taper of the rod blank. To do this, I use a boring tool that I made, and I will post a picture of it when I locate it. If you are old enough to remember the Comic Strip "Dagwood" - Well my garage is far more cluttered than Dagwood's closet. Lol! Meanwhile, the "not to scale" drawings below, will give you an idea of what it looks like and how it is used.

The first drawing shows the cork handle as it was made in the previous discussion. This handle is perfectly round and concentric with the center 1/4" diameter hole. The taper boring tool cuts the taper in several discrete steps, which are indexed to the 1/4" hole. The boring tool has a long extension which is also 1/4" in diameter. This extension must always be longer than the cork handle and it acts as a relatively precision centering guide, which keeps the boring cutters, (gray rectangles in the 2nd drawing) centered in the cork as the boring tool is pulled through the cork handle. These cutters are screwed onto the 1/4 threaded rod and can be positioned, length-wise, any place you so choose.

The white spaces in the last drawing are miniscule pockets where Rod Bond is squeezed into. The pockets look large in this "not to scale drawing" with an extreme taper. With real life rod tapers, the pockets are like 0.010" - 0.020" in height. If I had made the drawings to scale, you could not even see the pockets.

This tool is far more precise than the pull through tool currently being sold, because you can accurately locate the steps where you want them to be, whereas this can not be done with the commercial tool.

I hope this answers you question.

John Mantele

*

Neptune · Aug-17-2007, 10:20 AM

Jeff,

When I find it in the messy garage, you are welcome to use it - I'll let you know.

John

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Neptune · Aug-17-2007, 12:49 PM

<st1:city w:st="on"><st1:place w:st="on">Eureka!</st1:place></st1:city>- I found the Taper Boring tool, shown below. The bore cutters, shown in the foreground, range in diameter from: 0.725" up to approximately 0.900". These cutters are threaded and each individual one can be screwed onto the threaded rod (and locked in place) at a predetermined axial location, corresponding to the taper of the rod blank.

Note: I only build Saltwater rods, so that is why the bore cutters are the sizes indicated. Smaller diameter, down to 0.250" can also be made.

The threaded rod in the picture is for a short Grip. The Adapter for the drill chuck, which is shown on the top right side of the cutters, is connected to the brass bushing on the left side of the threaded rod. This particular threaded rod is a "PUSH" to bore configuration. The left end of the threaded rod is inserted into the cork grip to guide the cutters and keeping them concentric with the Cork Grip's O.D. -- The cork chips fall into the

spacing between the cutters.

John Mantele

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Billy 40 · Aug-17-2007, 12:59 PM

Now I understand more of what you did. That's pretty cool. The commercial reamer is designd to be used in conjunction with a standard reamer. you ream the grip to the larest OD of the blank, then finish up with a regular reamer. It's not as accurate and clean as what you've got here, but it is simple & effective.

If people are paying $75 for Batson Reamers, I think you would be able to sell this product you have here to lots of rodbuilders.