color preserver

[SepticDeath]

Hey guys, I have some questions. I just recently changed to gudebrod color preserver, not that I had ANY problems with flex coat, but because I have been playing with Madera size 40 thread, and they specifically state that the silky crap they coat their threads with performs the best with it. I hadn't noticed any issues with it until just now. I poured a small amount out into the cap, and went to go locate my brushes from the garage, came back and went to apply it, it got REAL tacky, the brush almost stuck to the threads, I noticed that the bottle says to thin with alcohol but I haven't had too, regardless, I used a brush to apply alcohol to the threads I had just treated and then used my thumb to try to get the tacky crap off me threads? This might be the 3rd time I have used it, on this same stick, so its real weird that it did this, of course, its a lot hotter now that the last time I did it (which was 4am in the morning?) anyways, the bottle has never been left open, but the small amount I poured into the cup tonight might have sat for 5 minutes, but I have never had this experience with the other brands, hell I'm not using the madera threads on this stick, so screw the stuff for now, but the next one, I'm using all kinds of those day-glow florescent colored threads for my wifes pink trout ultralight, so I would like to know.

Comments? Please?

Thanks

[Billy 40]

What color is the CP? If it is the greyish clear colored 811, that thickness is normal. Just thin with Denatured until it isn't so thick. If it is that same color, but has a VERY strong odor, that CP is no good. If it is milky white that is the new stuff and I don't have an answer for you.

[SepticDeath]

Originally Posted by Billy 40

What color is the CP? If it is the greyish clear colored 811, that thickness is normal. Just thin with Denatured until it isn't so thick. If it is that same color, but has a VERY strong odor, that CP is no good. If it is milky white that is the new stuff and I don't have an answer for you.

Its 811, has almost no order (slight, very slight).

I just let it dry last night, came back to it, and it looked normal, even though it seemed that it was built up higher in some spots than others, when it was all said and done, I couldn't even see that it was thicker in one spot or another, to be honest, I couldn't even really see anything was there, except of course when touching the threads, they seemed coated with something. Weird if you has me, I had expected to almost have to sand it down with what it looked like, then found it looking perfect. I just coated a thin finish coat over the area, white and yellow directly over a dark stick, and unfortunately, some slight bleeding of the darkness, so its obvious I need 2,3 if not 4 coats when using a yellow and a white as base colors on a dark black and/or blue stick, but I'll get the hang of it, at least its only SMALL (5-8 salts crystal sized) areas with the bleed, so I guess I just need to thin it out with alcohol (its a good thing you said denatured, as I would have thought to use rubbing alcohol as it says just use alcohol to thin on the package)

Thanks

[DragonMaster]

You can use Isopropyl if you don't have the denatured. Just be aware that each time you thin the stuff there are fewer solids in the mix. So you might want to test what you are doing before you thin it too much. The other thing is it may have a gray cast to it on a black background if you build it too much. I haven't tested the new stuff but the old stuff did so I quite using it.

[Billy 40]

OK, you have the GOOD 811, whic is no longer sold by Gudebrod. Your bottle just thickened up, which more than likely resulted in the blotching. IF you thin the CP you will NOT need more than 2 coats, provided you do a nice full saturating coat and wick off the excess. Leaving the excess on wil result in crystals on dark threads in the sunlight.

For the past 3 years I've used a single caot of 811 on my wraps, withut too much of a problem. I did a recent test wich showed 100% perfect results when using 2 coats though, which surprised the shit out of me.

[SepticDeath]

If I do any thinning, it would be in a smaller mixing cup, rather than all the product at once.

When you say "wick off the excess", what would be the best way to do this? I am using the cheap yellow flex coat brushes (using them only once for finish, for the CP I have been cleaning them with acetone, then water, and using them twice maybe). Although I did just spring 40 bucks for the fancy flexcoat brushes (money burning a hole in my pocket I have since been told) and some brush cleaner, but I figure better brushes cant hurt, now can they help?, who knows, but those would only be used for finish. I also bought some spatula's as over at Orca's I see him use the spatuala with great success, figure cant hurt to try, back to my question, how are you wicking off the excess, I guess it might be diffrent once I thin it, but as it is right now, it gets MIGHTY tacky, and most definently can be pulled to a un-even coat as I continue to touch it with the brush as I am currently using it, I first tried to get all fancy and let the rotation of the drying rod squeege the CP on as it spins, but that seems WAY to slow and didnt give better first comparision results, so I went with the side to side paint technique (on a side note, which seems to work better for me with finish as well) which seems to work the best, I was worried at first, but like I said, it seems to dry about even heights (even when at first it doesnt look to be, maybe its soaking into the thread) anyways, my final question is that since Im not using the madera threads that state to use the gudebroad (and since I cant get it you say, stock piling what I have for the insane colored madera threads makes sense) I'm just going to goto the white looking Flexcoat (that milky white is a whole nother freak out, applying that seems to be completly diffrent also)

[Billy 40]

BRushes - I use a $5 pack of artist brushes from the craft store. Flat shape, I trim the excess fibers. I think I got 12 brushes between 1/16 and 2" wide, but I only use 4 or 5 of them. Wider brush for long wraps, and various sizes to match teh length of guide wraps. I used to use an expensive brush made out of Sable, waste of money.

I bush the CP on heavy on the entire wrap, wick the brush with a paper towel, then go back and brush the COp off the wrap and wicking on th epaper towel. I really dont' want too much CP drying on top of the threads, once they "soak" in it's good.I think the entire bottle at once, it's much easier. Once it thickens up, I thin again. I've thinned the same 4oz bottle 4 or 5 times over the course of a couple of years with no ill effects, but do keep in mind each time there is less of the "preerver" each time.

[DragonMaster]

Billy; Do the guys out here know that your shoes match your headdress ?

[Billy 40]

Jim, that Avatar was doen for me by one of the Mods 3 years ago, way before I go tmy FIRST pair, lol. I just ordered another, with Lime Green straps, and another pair in "Grape" which I'll put the Fuschia straps on. lol - "straps on."

to answer your question, I doubt they have any clue about that, most who figure out who I am only know me frm RBO, which is the "PG-13" Billy, lol.

[Charlie Nguyen]

Hi Mr.Jim
Welcome to BD