....standard marblizing techniques as far as mixing finish and pigment, the rest is all in the stroke of the toothpick....just experiment and practice!
Basic marbling 101(condensed version):
Pigments: Many builders use Testors model paints to tint the finish. Works best if you let the bottles stand undisturbed until the pigment separates and settles to the bottom of the bottle and pour off some of the clear solvent carrier to concentrate the pigment.
Mix a batch of 2 part rod finish. Divide the mixed finish into individual cups, one cup per color, leaving enough in the original cup to apply a base coat to the rod. Add a few drops of each pigment color to the cups(the base coat cup can be pigmented or clear depending on the effect you want) and mix each well. Apply the base coat to the rod(pigmented or clear). Next, with a toothpick, apply the other colors to the base coat....dab, swirl, streak and blend...
The trick is developing your tecnique and learning to predict how the patterns will flow as the rod rotates and cures. Application speed, temperature, and dryer rpm are all factors in how the viscosity of the finish will react and allow pigment flow. Trial and error and practice is the best way to dertermine what works best for you and your enviroment and dryer speed.
Hint: Speedy appliclation and slower dryer(3-6-ish rpm) works best for a true natural marble effect because the epoxy will still be thin...and the slow rotation will allow the colors to blend and flow.....
To get a more structured look, or flames...or anything that needs to somewhat stay as applied, a slower application speed is ok, and a faster rotation(10-20 rpm) will help reduce flow for effects like this:
Linear Mode
