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Old Jun-30-2009, 08:46 AM   #13
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We use only TM for our ordered rods.

Your fisheyes are likely coming from one of three things: gaps in your wraps, or uneven pressure during the wrap, or uneven application of the CP.

We always use two coats of TM CP first, allowing each to spin for at least 2hrs and to dry out (cure) for two more hrs, in a temp. controlled area (never less than 70deg). We NEVER wipe our wrpas with ANYTHING, but when we finish wrapping and vacuuming the wraps we flame them to eliminate fuzz, and then immediately cover them with some non-sticky wrap till we're ready to cover them.

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Old Jun-30-2009, 09:30 AM   #14
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Well Russ, I think I would dismiss those points. Bill's been around the block enough times that his tires are worn down to the plys on one edge And none really explain why TM would be different in fisheye potential either.

But I've certainly noted that if I wait too long before putting on a coat, I get a lot more fisheyes. And by too long, I mean still within the TM guidelines. Now it could be argued that is because the longer I wait, the more possible contamination I can have build up,,,,,, but the fisheyes from waiting too long between coats has been a VERY consistent effect for me, regardless of my care to avoid fisheyes environmentally.
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Old Jun-30-2009, 11:51 AM   #15
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I too have the same issue. Just let a tiger sit for about a week, applied a 3rd coat and it went on pretty nasty - i even wiped it with alcohol and distilled water first...
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Old Jun-30-2009, 11:58 AM   #16
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I too have the same issue. Just let a tiger sit for about a week, applied a 3rd coat and it went on pretty nasty - i even wiped it with alcohol and distilled water first...
Yep. A week is far too long. You have to sand/Scotchbrite if even a full day goes by from my experience.
Oh,,,, and I wouldn't even bother with the distilled water. Could actually make things worse
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Old Jun-30-2009, 02:23 PM   #17
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Just my .02

I just recently tried a kit of thread master lite, it cures slower than Flex-coat lite but went on pretty easy over 2 CP coats of Chroma Seal on the Madeira thread, first CP application is thinned about 25% with water and alcohol, second is full strength.

I applied a finish primer coat, waited 24 hrs and applied a second heavier finish coat.

It came out nice and level, no fish eyes or pulls, pot life seems to be a little longer than Flex C so all in all at least for me it's a workable finish.
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Old Jun-30-2009, 02:48 PM   #18
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Originally Posted by Jan from Humbol View Post
I just recently tried a kit of thread master lite, it cures slower than Flex-coat lite but went on pretty easy over 2 CP coats of Chroma Seal on the Madeira thread, first CP application is thinned about 25% with water and alcohol, second is full strength.

I applied a finish primer coat, waited 24 hrs and applied a second heavier finish coat.

It came out nice and level, no fish eyes or pulls, pot life seems to be a little longer than Flex C so all in all at least for me it's a workable finish.
Heck Jan, I find the exact opposite, Thread Master kicks off faster for me and has less pot life, But levels better and seems more "water white" clear than FC. Could be the differences in where we live. Humidity and heat affect all epoxies in one way or another
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Old Jun-30-2009, 03:11 PM   #19
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Dave - how long do you usually wait before coats? The bottle says 24 hours - which is too long;I believe the website says 6-8 hours...
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Old Jun-30-2009, 03:12 PM   #20
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But Bill,,,, sounds like you are describing TM regular. Jan is talking TM Lite.
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Old Jun-30-2009, 03:14 PM   #21
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Dave - how long do you usually wait before coats? The bottle says 24 hours - which is too long;I believe the website says 6-8 hours...
On TM Lite I generally do it within 12 hours. On TM regular, within 8. Temps and such change the times. Mostly I just go by when the leftover in the mixing cup seems cured enough, regardless of what the clock says
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Old Jun-30-2009, 03:40 PM   #22
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But Bill,,,, sounds like you are describing TM regular. Jan is talking TM Lite.
My bad, I do use regular. Never understood why you would buy thinned down version when you can thin it yourself
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Old Jun-30-2009, 03:46 PM   #23
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6 hrs. 8 hrs., primer coat, fish eyes, no fish eyes, scotch pad, etc, etc., etc. all this talk about threadmaster is way to complicated for me. i'll stick with classic.
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Old Jun-30-2009, 06:21 PM   #24
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My bad, I do use regular. Never understood why you would buy thinned down version when you can thin it yourself
I use both. I like the Lite for most everything, except for the final top coat. I think they are both near 100% solids, so it isn't really like it is thinned Regular. The Lite has a much longer pot life, saturates and flows far better, and is softer. The regular is harder, which is why I use it on the final top coat.
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