micro bubbles in second wrap finish - tiger wrap

[MKUHN138]

I'm wondering if anybody has had issues with micro bubbles in the second stage finish while doing a tiger wrap. I have done the tiger numerous times with NCP and not had any issues; the rods I'm currently working on, I've used nylon and applied 3 coats of color preserver prior to finish.

While applying the epoxy, I've tried using heat and it pops all of the larger bubbles and surface bubbles. I'm wondering if these bubbles are maybe in the color preserver, and are showing through the epoxy. Just as an FYI i'm pulling the sacraficial thread prior to applying CP

Any advice is appreciated

Thanks

Matt

[BakerStBobby2]

You use CP on the top wrap? I've never done that...
This might be your micro bubble problem. CP will(especially with 3 coats) create micro bubbles.
Maybe try the top wraps of nylon w/o cp. It'll make the nylon darker, but it's always worked out fine for me.
Bobby~

[SALTYDAWG]

What Bobby said, CP will get micro bubbles, Especially if not completely dry between coats

[MKUHN138]

I used the CP based on a tutorial I found put together by Jim Rippe, although in the tutorial he only mentions one coat of CP over the top thread. Any suggestions on how to still make this happen with eliminating the problem? I'm trying one with Madeira thread right now, and will not be able to coat the top thread without using CP.

I guess as a last resort I could use the Madeira on the bottom 2 and NCP on the top...

Thanks for the help guys.

[DenisB]

let CP dry out completely for at least 24 hrs between coats ( if multiple coating) & leave at least 48 hrs after the last CP coat before applying epoxy, minimises issues.
Warming the CP'ed wraps before applying epoxy can help too.
Thin layer epoxy for the first coat.
Everybody has their own technique to minimise issues just have to find what works for you.

[Capt. G]

First I will say that I know this is not "they way everybody does it (ie. the right way) " but....
I am probably the only builder on this forum that does not put ANY coating on the bottom layer of a tiger wrap--only three coats over the tiger wrap when it is completed. Depending on the colors, sizes and types of thread, I sometimes put color preserver (Flex Coat stuff that looks like milk) on the bottom and top layers. Sometimes I put it over the top layer as a filler, so the surface will become smooth enough to lay down a logo. So I have pretty much used it everywhere in a tiger wrap, and have never had even the slightest problem with bubbles.





I do dump my clearcoating on a metal tray, and heat it with heat gun before applying.

[Comedie]

Just some guesses,,,, you are displacing the air in the thread and it becomes entrapped in the CP, and/or, too much brush work is creating the bubbles.
Try this: Thin the CP, fully saturate the thread, take off the excess, and let that dry. Basically that displaces the air in the thread and leaves no ocean of CP around to entrap it. I avoid using CP, but when I use it, I give thread two flood coats as described. No brushing required and thin enough that there's no room for air bubbles to set up in.

[Kareem Korn]

Originally Posted by Capt. G

I do dump my clearcoating on a metal tray, and heat it with heat gun before applying.

I keep forgetting that trick.

[bajaspearo]

I wonder if applying CP and then heat with a gun would help to resolve this. I had this issue before also and had stopped using CP altogether.

[MKUHN138]

Anytime I apply heat to CP is get's kind of crusty and milky looking.

What i'm doing is all size A nylon - black and sandstone on bottom, olive green on top. I'm trying to get a camo look. I think I'm going to try the bottom wrap with CP and then no CP over the top, and see what it looks like.

Thanks