Help on putting back a Daiwa Luna 300

[Crazy fisherman]

Hello,
Well, I have taken the reel down for 4 times now and the 5th time is not a charm. I updated my reel to carbontex and smoothy drag metal washers on my reel and the 1st 4 time I dissemble the reel there seems to be no problem. Yesterday I was using the reel diagram and that is when things started to go wrong. Now I know how to read the reel diagram but what I am confuse is Daiwa diagram shows that the 2 spring metal washers which I arranged them () are located on the left side of the big ball bearing that located under the star drag wheel. On all my other reels (shimano calcutta, Te, trinidad) has these spring washers located to the right of the ball bearings and under the star drag wheel. I didn't remember their orders when I dissembled the reel which I should when it was working.
There seems to be "not enough room" on the main shaft to fit every thing in there since the drag get real tight after I installed the handle (shimano Tekota handle, it works on this reel just fine before....) I have 11 washers inside the main gear (in the right orders per qty per Daiwa reel diagram), I kept the small spacer under the main gear and the backup pawl is sit in its slot. So now I don't know exact why it didn't go in like the way it supposes to. Anyone that take this reel apart please give me a suggestion on what I did wrong. I plan to go back and play with it again....Thanks.
Ronn

[wahging]

try putting the drag spring washers (( instead of ()--I had a simular problem on one of my. three saltist. Two worked fine one was too tight

[alantani]

ronn, here's the schematic i'm working off of.....

http://mikesreelrepair.com/schematic...una%20300L.pdf

dawn at SMOoOTH DRAG *** Can Stop Anything *** is pretty good at getting her drag and metal washers right on the money. i don't know about this one in particular, but i would not have anticipated a problem. still, here we are.

one thing to try is to re-install the stock metal washers. i generally do not recommend replacing these stock metal washers because i don't think it's usually needed. you definitely need the carbontex washers, but either set of metal washers should work just fine.

a second thing to try is check just to make sure that you did in fact remove all of the orginal drag and fiber washers. if you forget and leave one in, they you will quickly run out of space. i mention this because i've screwed this up before. when you're in a hurry, these things can happen. in particular, check to insure that you removed drive shaft washer B (key #79). if i was going to forget one, that would be it.

third is the stack of washers between the gear shaft collar (key #85) and the star drag (key #90). yeah, this is the reason i wanted you to see the schematic that i'm working on, so we're on the same page. you see two spring washers (key #87) oriented "()". they can be switched to "))", or one can be removed, or both can be removed. i previously used penn ht-100 drag washers and had to constantly mess with these to get the proper height. the thing that is important is to keep a pair of thrust washers (keys #88 and #97) on either side of the bearing (key #89). you actually can remove these as long as there is no contact between the inner race and the shield or outer race.

while you're at it, carefully remove the shields and pack this bearing with grease! let us know how this works out. thanks. alan

[Crazy fisherman]

Hello Alan,
Thanks for the tips. I was able to get the reel to work again. I have key #79 in the right place. I had the key #87 washers in the wrong position along with one too many washer (Key #81 at the bottom of the main gear). I removed Key #81 from the bottom of the main gear and change direction of Key #87 to )) and it works. However, the drag is not as smooth as my conquest 400 or TE400 with carbontex that I have. There is a surge at higher drag setting and I don't know why. I took the carbontex washers out and make sure I greased it evenly, wipe the off and reinstalled but it still not much better. Upon a closer inspection I found that there is light fine lines on metal washers (Smooth drag metal washers) cause by carbontex washers. I don't know if this is what cause that slight surge. Another thing I notice is when I tight down the drag, the drag, at times, would not increase right away but started to increase when I start to pull line out of the reel for may be about 1 yard or so and that is where I found the surge in the drag pressure. Would the drag still work if I remove the 2 key #87?

How do you remove the shield off the ball bearing # 89? I might give it a try tonight.

Thanks for your help.

Ronn

[alantani]

here's the first type of bearing. there's no retaining ring holding in the shield, so it's a pressed in type. take a small pen knife and pry out the shield.



what you see is a small amount of hardened grease residue and surface rust. this bearing won't spin worth beans.



as long as there is now pitting, carb cleaner and compressed air will clean up these bearings nicely.



after a gentle blast with compressed air, a clean bearing should spin for a good 10 to 15 seconds.



for the last year, i have been leaving the spool bearings open and lubing them with corrosion x. your handle shaft bearings should be packed with grease.

[alantani]

here's the second type of bearing. this one has a seal that is typically made of some type of phenolic material. this is the type that avet and accurate use. these seals pop out easily using a small pen knife. the great thing is that you can also pop them back in. for handle and side plate bearings in the avet and accurate, i like to pack them with yamaha engine grease. i still like to leave the spool bearings open.



and here's the last type, with a retaining ring. carefully remove the retaining with the point of a small fish hook, then carefully pry out the shield and clean the bearing. if you don't mangle anything, you can put the shield back in if that's what you want to do.



lastly, a note of caution. don't jab too deep into the bearing. if you damage anything inside the bearing, you will totally screw it up. when i first started doing this, i tried to remove the shields from some tiny 3x10x4 metric bearings and screwed up $100's worth. lesson learned. good luck! alan

[Crazy fisherman]

Thanks so much Alan for the photo. I will sure try that tonight when I get home. My reel is only a few months old and still very much new so I don't expect any thing to change interm of condition. But I like to tinkger with them anyway....

Bobby