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Old May-13-2008, 01:01 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Name: john
Age: 31
Vessel: not yet
Location: heber,ut,usa
Job:noyfb
WHICH IS BEST???

I AM NEW TO THIS TERRITORY OF CASTING FOR TUNA, I HAVE JUST BOUGHT A DAIWA SHA-30 SEALINE AND I AM ALREADY DISCOVERING THAT SWITCHING FROM SPINNING TO BAITCASTER IS A PUNCH IN THE PILLS, I'VE BEEN INCREASING MY LENGTH ON CASTS, BUT I HAVE READ THAT THERE IS A ANTI BACK-LASH BREAK IN THE REEL AND IS REMOVABLE. BUT ITS ATTACHED WITH A WARNING THAT UNLESS YOU ARE COMFORTABLE WITH THUMB CONTROL DONT BOTHER. SO AM I LOSING WITH THE BREAK OR NOT.

I WOULD APPRECIATE ANY TIPS TO MAXIUMIZE THE POTENTIAL IN THIS REEL.

THANKS, JOHN
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Old May-13-2008, 01:06 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Name: jesse
Age: 29
Vessel: 18' bayrunner westcoaster
Location: SD
Job:mortgage broker
Bio: fisherman
Dude, the only way to get good at pitching irons or whatever is to practice. I would loosen that can just enought to spin true. I would just go down to to your local watering hole and swing away. You'll get it soon enough. when you reel in try to remeber to guide the line back and forth and keep the line tight on the spool.

PS make sure you wet the line before you swing for the fences.. or else... ouch... burnt thumb
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Old May-13-2008, 01:13 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Name: Jack
Vessel: 17ft Delta Alum Skiff
Location: Rancho Bernardo
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Practice and more practice. Go on a boat and watch someone closely, you have to get that pendulum affect. Like Jesse says make sure to wet your spool, and make sure on the retrieve you get a tight even spool.
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Old May-13-2008, 01:24 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Name: Ethan
Age: 29
Vessel: '08 Sea Pro 176cc
Location: Oceanside/CA/USA
Job:Operations Manager
Bio: Fishin, snowboarding, golfing, racquetball, racing my cbr1000rr, and wondering why I have no time to work on my house!
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All caps= yelling.. haha
Set up for the next cast by getting a tight even wrap of line. Just practice and usually a slightly heavier iron will really help you wing it. Just make sure that the line peeling off the spool isnt coming off too much faster than the speed that the iron is flying. Actually, practice not so much on the distance, but having no backlash. This will make your casts shorter, as youll be using more thumb as the brake but after you master that, the distance will come.
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Old May-13-2008, 02:19 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Name: Jamie
Age: 53
Vessel: Malibu Wakesetter LSV
Location: Calabasas CA
Job:aerospace
Yo John,

Welcome to the wondeful world of casting. Casting artificials and bait for better distance is always satisfying and rewarding. Here are a couple of things to think about when casting.

1. As others have said get you line wet by pouring some clean water or bait tank water over it prior to your first cast.

2. Think of 10 oclock and two oclock for your starting points and stoping points of the tip of your rod. Start behind you around 10 oclock and finish in front of you at 2 oclock. You will be able to play with these spots depending on wind conditions and desired trajectories but they will get you started. In truth the spot where your rod tip stops is every bit or more important then where it starts. If you continue the travel of the rod tip down, past 2 oclock, after you have released the spool, the natural tendency is to bring the rod tip back up to level or where ever is comfortable. This immediately puts extra slack in what should be a fairly taught arc/cast.

3. Drop your jig about 3 Feet from the tip of the rod and let it swing like a pendulum.
At the point the jig is starting to move away from your body begin your swing with your arms and shoulders as you move your weight from your back foot and change your weighting to your front foot as you pass through the 12 oclock position. As strange as this sounds the power does not come from you whipping your arms around but you load up the rod by pushing through your back foot, using your entire torso to generate power. Your arms, when done correctly, do NOT do most of the work. As you get more comfortable with the technique you may find you will drop your jig almost all the way to the ground which will allow the rod to load up even more.

3. Getting used to thumbing the line on the spool or the side of the spool is personal preferance. Knowing when to let go is a function of your ability to load the rod up by weight transfer as well as the location of the tip above your body. Over rides occur when you release before the 2 oclock position resulting in a high arc that once it hits its peak can no longer pull line from the reel. It can also occur if you do not clamp back down on the spool as the jig hits the water. A proper cast will not require any
braking or cast control until the jig or bait hits the water as the proper arc will continue to pull line of the reel at a rate that will not cause an over ride.
Proper trajectory or arc path the bait/jig takes is what you are looking for and thus, by releasing around the 1:30 - 2 oclock position of your cast will give you what you are looking for.

4. Always look behind you before and during casting. Prior to taking you rod tip back to begin your cast call out "Going OUt" or words to that effect to let folks know what you are doing and will not run into your jig or mess them up while they cast. It is the caster's responsibility to make sure you are clear to throw with no one near the jig or rod and no unwary souls making their way up the rail into your path.

5. Make sure your bearings and spool spin smoothly and effortlessly. I am not a big believer in cast control as a properly thrown bait or artificial should not require it. I have found for many folks it is a crutch to be used in place of practicing however, if you need it try it. AS you get better you can start backing off the control knob until you do not need it at all. For this fisherman I would love a perfect spinning spool.

5.5 Assure you apply some pressure to the line as you retrieve it. Try and use your off hand fingers to pinch the line and lay it on the spool evenly. Loose line on a spool is deadly to a caster.
If you have been in a tangle and have loose line just drop smoothly straight down until the loose line is gone a reel back in with tension.

6. Practice, Pratice practice. You could not bowl a 300 game with out practicing. You cannot make bastkets on a regular basis without practicing or perform at any high level in any sport without practicing.

7. Enjoy, Throwing stuff is almost always more fun than not.

Jamie
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Old May-13-2008, 02:31 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Age: 54
Vessel: a vessel / a craft designed for water transportation which carries seamen
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All caps= yelling.. haha

He's in Utah he wanted to make sure we all could hear him.
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Old May-13-2008, 03:06 PM   #7 (permalink)
born to fish
 
Name: john
Age: 31
Vessel: not yet
Location: heber,ut,usa
Job:noyfb
you said it!!

being out in utah you got to yell as loud as possible to get over that damn temple!!!
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Old May-13-2008, 03:33 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Name: Jon Scobey
Vessel: SS Minnow
Location: Bartlett, TN
Job:CFO / CPA
Images: 1
I will add a bit to Jamie's wonderful advice, practice casting into the wind and from an elevated position. As a recovering deer hunter, I am used to having the wind in my face and it is the same on a boat. If you are live bait fishing, the boat will logically move with the wind and if you cast down wind, which is easier, the boat will end up on top of your bait. Casting into the wind is much harder, especially with light baits. Again, practice, practice, and then practice some more. I go out each evening as the wife gets dinner ready and practice for just 10-15 minutes.
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Old May-13-2008, 10:01 PM   #9 (permalink)
born to fish
 
Name: john
Age: 31
Vessel: not yet
Location: heber,ut,usa
Job:noyfb
thanks guys i appreciate the info any info on the daiwa sha-30

thanks,
john
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Old May-14-2008, 12:12 AM   #10 (permalink)
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Name: Mark
Age: 17
Vessel: Not yet
Location: Poway
Job:Deckhand, Dolphin Sportfishing
Bio: Fish when you can, you only live once
Images: 7
Quote:
Originally Posted by fishordie View Post
Yo John,

Welcome to the wondeful world of casting. Casting artificials and bait for better distance is always satisfying and rewarding. Here are a couple of things to think about when casting.

1. As others have said get you line wet by pouring some clean water or bait tank water over it prior to your first cast.

2. Think of 10 oclock and two oclock for your starting points and stoping points of the tip of your rod. Start behind you around 10 oclock and finish in front of you at 2 oclock. You will be able to play with these spots depending on wind conditions and desired trajectories but they will get you started. In truth the spot where your rod tip stops is every bit or more important then where it starts. If you continue the travel of the rod tip down, past 2 oclock, after you have released the spool, the natural tendency is to bring the rod tip back up to level or where ever is comfortable. This immediately puts extra slack in what should be a fairly taught arc/cast.

3. Drop your jig about 3 Feet from the tip of the rod and let it swing like a pendulum.
At the point the jig is starting to move away from your body begin your swing with your arms and shoulders as you move your weight from your back foot and change your weighting to your front foot as you pass through the 12 oclock position. As strange as this sounds the power does not come from you whipping your arms around but you load up the rod by pushing through your back foot, using your entire torso to generate power. Your arms, when done correctly, do NOT do most of the work. As you get more comfortable with the technique you may find you will drop your jig almost all the way to the ground which will allow the rod to load up even more.

3. Getting used to thumbing the line on the spool or the side of the spool is personal preferance. Knowing when to let go is a function of your ability to load the rod up by weight transfer as well as the location of the tip above your body. Over rides occur when you release before the 2 oclock position resulting in a high arc that once it hits its peak can no longer pull line from the reel. It can also occur if you do not clamp back down on the spool as the jig hits the water. A proper cast will not require any
braking or cast control until the jig or bait hits the water as the proper arc will continue to pull line of the reel at a rate that will not cause an over ride.
Proper trajectory or arc path the bait/jig takes is what you are looking for and thus, by releasing around the 1:30 - 2 oclock position of your cast will give you what you are looking for.

4. Always look behind you before and during casting. Prior to taking you rod tip back to begin your cast call out "Going OUt" or words to that effect to let folks know what you are doing and will not run into your jig or mess them up while they cast. It is the caster's responsibility to make sure you are clear to throw with no one near the jig or rod and no unwary souls making their way up the rail into your path.

5. Make sure your bearings and spool spin smoothly and effortlessly. I am not a big believer in cast control as a properly thrown bait or artificial should not require it. I have found for many folks it is a crutch to be used in place of practicing however, if you need it try it. AS you get better you can start backing off the control knob until you do not need it at all. For this fisherman I would love a perfect spinning spool.

5.5 Assure you apply some pressure to the line as you retrieve it. Try and use your off hand fingers to pinch the line and lay it on the spool evenly. Loose line on a spool is deadly to a caster.
If you have been in a tangle and have loose line just drop smoothly straight down until the loose line is gone a reel back in with tension.

6. Practice, Pratice practice. You could not bowl a 300 game with out practicing. You cannot make bastkets on a regular basis without practicing or perform at any high level in any sport without practicing.

7. Enjoy, Throwing stuff is almost always more fun than not.

Jamie
thanks for actually putting the time and effort into a truly helpful post
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