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rebuild a tank - the penn 40 gls

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Old Feb-08-2006, 11:13 PM   #1
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rebuild a tank - the penn 40 gls

the most expensive stuff you own is the stuff you don't use.
by those criteria, the penn 25/40/45 graphite leverdrag series reels are probably the most expensive reels ever made. they feel like tanks - heavy, sluggish and akward. it seemed like a good idea at the time, but it lacked the zip! and crispness of a shimano tld 20. so it was fished a few times, and then it sat, and it sat, and it sat some more. and then it was pulled off the rod and was lost under that pile of junk in the closet or garage. and it's still there!
well, just don't stand there. go get it! we've got some work to do. we're going to practice on this reel. because the penn internationals are next! so here goes....

here's the link to the parts list and the schematics.

http://www.scottsbt.com/catalog/stor...1&ClearCache=1

and here's your old friend. doesn't look that bad, does it.

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pull the pre-set knob (key #144), the spring (key #41), backing washer (key #60), collar (key #83), cam lever (key #21) and cam follower (key #141).

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remove the quadrant ring (key #2) and screws (keys #32 and 38A).

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remove the right side plate assembly (key #1, et al.) and screws (keys #16 and 38).

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this photo shows a rubber gasket found only in the oldest reels. careful with this one. they're very brittle, but you can reassemble the reel without the gasket and it will work just fine.

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pull the spool assembly

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now, the reason this reel was sent to me was because the clicker didn't work. you can see why. it takes a little doing (and a little experience) but the clicker spring needs to be bent back into "position." too loose and the clicker doesn't make any noise. too tight and it won't pop in and out of position properly. at the end, i had to take this reel apart three times to get it just right.

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take a second now and let's grease the screw holes.

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remove the spool shaft and pin assembly (keys #71 and 142) with the four clutch springs (key #18, aka belleville's) and thrust washer (key #20). the stock orientation of the washer stack is "()()|". the height of this stack of washers is 5.18 mm.

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we're going to change the orientation of the bellevilles to "(())|" and now the height is 4.61 mm.

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re-install the clutch springs (bellevilles) and the thrust washer in the "(())|" orientation. in most reels the decreased height of the stack of washers is no problem. in some, it might be. it's not an issue here, but keep it in mind.

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time to remove the drag cover (key #156).

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it's held in by three small tabs. carefully pry out the cap at those three points.

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mark those three tabs in case you ever have to pull the drag cover again. note that the old style penn international 16 and other reels have a "T" marking the tabs.

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the drag washer or drive plate assembly (key #117) is actually made up of a penn ht-100 drag washer glued to an aluminum backing plate.

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fortunately there was no water intrusion into this reel. salt water in the drag chamber would have rusted the bearing into the drive plate, fouled the bearing itself, and penetrated the dry drag washer causing the aluminum underneath to bubble. that's how these drag washers fail. i was glad this drag washer was ok, because they are no longer available.

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set aside the bearing spring (key #41A) and the thrust washer (no key #).

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let's pull the drag washer bearing.

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there's no retaining ring holding in the shield, so it's a pressed in type. take a small pen knife and pry out the shield.

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what you see is a small amount of hardened grease residue and surface rust. this bearing won't spin worth beans.

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as long as there is now pitting, carb cleaner and compressed air will clean up these bearings nicely.

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after a blast with compressed air, a clean bearing should spin for a good 10 to 15 seconds.

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for the last year, i have been leaving the bearings open and lubing them with corrosion x. so far, so good.

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clean the dry drag washer with a clean rag.

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what i do now is to apply a thick coat of shimano drag grease to the drag washer. in particular, get the edges to prevent salt water intrusion.

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then i rub off all of the excess. you now have a teflon-impregnated carbon fiber drag washer. i believe that this drag washer performs as well as dry washer. i also believe that it will resist salt water intrusion forever.

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let's pull the spool bearings (keys #26 and 55) and clean and lube them up in the same way.

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and put the spool back together again.

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the side plate and quadrant go back on.

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put the lever back on and make sure it is in the "free" position. this is CRITICAL.

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the reel is now back together and this is all you needed.

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congratulations! you're ready for the old style penn internationals.

Last edited by Jason; Oct-08-2006 at 12:42 AM.
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Old Feb-09-2006, 10:28 AM   #2
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Re: rebuild a tank - the penn 40 gls

Nicely done !!!
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Old Feb-09-2006, 10:34 AM   #3
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Re: rebuild a tank - the penn 40 gls

Thats a killer tutorial. Thanks for posting it. Look forward to others.
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Old Feb-09-2006, 10:49 AM   #4
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Re: rebuild a tank - the penn 40 gls

Quote:
Originally Posted by KC Kevin
Thats a killer tutorial. Thanks for posting it. Look forward to others.
Amen, brother.

Thanks, Alan. I am going to school on this.
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Old Feb-09-2006, 12:18 PM   #5
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Re: rebuild a tank - the penn 40 gls

thanks, guys. in my haste, i forgot to add the best part. handle upgrades! here, from left to right, you see a penn 30 international handle now on the reel, a stock 4/0 senator handle, and the tiny itty bitty little stock 40 gls handle that comes with the reel. i even have a pete kolekar handle that will fit this.

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Old Feb-09-2006, 08:13 PM   #6
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Re: rebuild a tank - the penn 40 gls

A, that's some nice work. Thanks.
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Old Feb-09-2006, 08:58 PM   #7
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Re: rebuild a tank - the penn 40 gls

awesome, nice job. burn a disk and sell them on ebay. before you do, let me cut and paste.
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Old Feb-09-2006, 09:23 PM   #8
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Re: rebuild a tank - the penn 40 gls

Quote:
Originally Posted by Cuda_Killer
awesome, nice job. burn a disk and sell them on ebay. before you do, let me cut and paste.

Ya' cheapskate!


FISH HARD!

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Old Jan-02-2007, 09:01 AM   #9
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Re: rebuild a tank - the penn 40 gls

thanks for this- really useful.

What might i have done wrong if it seems harder to turn the handle when more drag is added.
The drag cover is missing as i bust off a tab- does this effect performance?

Thanks

Paul
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Old Jan-02-2007, 10:42 AM   #10
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Re: rebuild a tank - the penn 40 gls

Thanks! Just redid my GLS45.
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Old May-27-2007, 07:52 AM   #11
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Re: rebuild a tank - the penn 40 gls

I cant seem to get enough free spool- not quite loose enough for my liking, anytthing i can do to improve this?

Thamks

Paul
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Old May-27-2007, 10:52 AM   #12
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Re: rebuild a tank - the penn 40 gls

I bought one GLS 40 when they came out.Fished it hard one year then the problems started.Three years latter I'm talking to the penn rep at the boat show with my issues with the reel and my long love for the Penn 4/0s.He let me return this 3 year old reel and gave me a new in the box 4/0.Now thats serv.Learn a lesson new reel makers there is a reason penn has maintained the lead in the market for years.My 2 cents.Paul your reports are great thanks
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