Need tips for trout gear.

[dctalk523]

Long time reader, first time posting on this site. Hello to all. I need some tips regarding trout gear. I really want to go and fish mammoth/owens river areas this coming up spring/summer. I need some help/suggestions on gear. Generally, what lb test should I stick with when fishing this area? I was thinking 2-4lb test. As for rod length, what do ya'll suggest? I was thinking 5-6 foot. Suggestions/tips will greatly help. Don't usually fish freshwater, but want to give it a try. Thanks in advance.

[Steve K]

That's a lot of really good advice for the time you will spend either sitting on the shore or sitting in a boat fishing bait at the lakes. When it comes to the river or creeks, you're going to want to use some different gear.

You'll want to move up in line strength to 4-6 lb and depending on the water clarity and time of year, a fluorarbon leader may help. Use a single hook, #8 or #10 and pinch on enough splitshot 8-10" above the hook, enough so you can feel it bouncing on the bottom occasionally. You snag up sometimes and need to retie but it's great fun. I like Crickets in the river down in the valley bround Bishop, and Nightcrawlers too. Also very productive are red eggs like Pautzke's.

I used to fish creeks and the river quite a bit but now I'm pretty much a troller. That's what happens when you get a boat and decide to drag the Rapalas for browns. You don't always get them, but when you do, it's quite a reward.

Just as we always say, "listen to the crew" on Long Range boats, I suggest you check in with a local tackle shop in Bishop or Mammoth for terminal tackle advice as well as suggestions as to where to go and what to use.

[sonnylim]

I use a Shimano Sustain SA1000 and a Quantum Energy PT10 on a G Loomis SR661 5'6" & SR781 6'6".

I use the shorter rod for bait or what I call kick back fishing and is loaded up with 2 lbs test. I set up my bait rig similar to how Saluki sets up his rigs.

The longer rod is for casting small jigs and is loaded up with 4 lbs. I also use this set up as a drop shot rig. Drop shot is a Bass fishing technique that I also use for trout fishing and have been very succesful doing it. You basically tie a sinker at the end of your line and then tie a hook anywhere from 12" to 24" above the sinker. Use the same worms that you would use for bait fishing like Saluki described and thread it the same way.

Hope this helps.

[Fishrdan]

Good stuff guys, here's another option. Pick up some snap swivles and selection of spinners, Panther Martin (black w/yellow spots and gold blade is my favorite), Mepps, Kast Master, etc, and cast away. I use 4-6# line and a 6-7' rod, varying the retrieve speed, burn it in or reel in as slow as possible with the rod held high, maybe stop & go. I like feeling the fish hit the lure as it's being retrieved.

If you have boat access, trolling is also productive. Spinner, small plug or my favorite,,, pop gear with a 2-4' leader and a 1-2" section of nightcrawler. I usually run a large long shank hook (#1 or 1/0) with the barb smashed down so the trout don't get the hook in their throat and for easy unhooking and release. Last spring my son and I caught 50-60 trout one day with several double hook-ups,,, loads of fun! Here's the setup:

----main line----sinker(s)----pop gear----trolling snubber----leader----hook with smashed barb and night crawler < o ((((((( > {

You can also run a spinner, spoon or plug instead of a hook-n-bait behind the pop gear

[Az.monkey]

Originally Posted by rocknbones

you could have been out ding dong ditchin

would that be the same as ring and run ? B must be new school

[N J Mello]

Drifting live crickets in the streams is the hot ticket - a really good place to try is Rush Creek - between Silver and Grant Lakes on the June Lake Loop, for Rainbows and Brookies. The Owens River, North of Lake Crowley and South of Crowley between Pleasant Valley and Route 6, is good for Browns.

Best place for Golden is Laurel Lakes, Southside of Mammoth, but won't be open this time of year (usually not accessible by vehicle until late July or August - sometimes not at all depending on snow melt) - over 10,000 feet, and need a 4X4.

That whole area won't be open season until the last Saturday in April. Check in any of the bait/tackle shops in Bishop to find out what's best bait and where they are biting.

Good luck

[pg60]

Bring these...Mepp's#1, Panther Martin (yellow/black), Nightcrawlers. Straight 4lb test all day long.

[WreckinBall]

Originally Posted by sonnylim

The longer rod is for casting small jigs and is loaded up with 4 lbs. I also use this set up as a drop shot rig. Drop shot is a Bass fishing technique that I also use for trout fishing and have been very succesful doing it.

Amen, brother! I think the 8' (or longer) rod is better for covering more water when drop-shotting, but your mileage may vary. The longer stick is better for throwing the small jigs, and less line resistance means better jig action. 2# Izor XXX rocks!

[fyigm]

2 pound

[bigiron]

Kencor PAC73 Finger Rod
Daiwa SS700
Maxima 2#
Finger Jigs (Smoke Sparkle or Red & White)

[hustlur]

Depending on your budget on gear!!!!!

Phenix 8 foot 5 weight w/ a Stella 1000FA = $700
Daiwa Spinmatic 8 foot w/ Abu Garcia Cardinal 301 = $100

As for line, it all depends. I'm a fan of P-Line in freshwater.

- 3lb Pline Fluoroclear - If the water is above 50 degrees, or else the line gets powdery.

- 2lb-4lb Pline Fluorocarbon - Great for clear water, yet it stretches a lot.

- 2lb-4lb Cuda Fluorocarbon - Great for clear water, yet it's like Maxima it has a lot of memory. It sucks when you are slow retrieving, and jigging. The line tends to uncoil.


Set ups!!!!

StreamsMake sure to check regulations!!!)

Barbless Hook and Artficials only streams.

- Use a #7 splitshot with a 3 feet leader ,and at the end a size 8 mosquito hook with a power worm. Cast away from the drift, keep your line tight(no slack), as it drifts down with the current. Repeat after worm has gained maximum drift.

- Use the same technique with a 1/32 oz mini jig, yet make sure you are creating an erratic action with your jig.

- You can use the same technique with a cigar bobber, and with a an olive wooly bugger or midge size#10 or #8.


Lakes(shore)

- Inflated NC on a size #8 mosquito hook (I like using a 2 foot leader, and using the smallest split shot available.)

- Drift a NC with a cigar bobber(get the ones with a weight ring on it.) I usually do 7' to 8' from bobber to worm. This is why a long rod helps also for casting.

- Cast 1/16 oz minijigs from shore. Colors - Pearl White, Yellow/White, Red/White)

- Cast 1/12 oz Silver Kastmaster w/ Blue Stripe

Boat(Trolling)

- Use 6lb test and troll flatline.

Use Daiwa Minnow (Gold/Black or Orange) = 25 feet of line max
Cultiva Shad (Pink or Orange) = 25 feet to 50 feet of line max
Rapala CD7 or CD9 (Brook trout Pattern) = 25 feet to 60 feet of line. (This is a killer in Bridgeport on some monster Browns.)

I hope this helps, and hope to see you there. I already have a trip scheduled to climb up the Meysan lakes to get some nice Goldens.

Hustlur

[bill.bathgate@y]

First I am no expert on the rivers you mention. My experience with trout and rivers is that you should use a fly rod set up with a 5/6 wt rod about 8 ft in legth. Use one spool with sinking line and one spool with floating line (or bone fish line, it is somewhere in between the two). If using a floating line get a couple of indicators (a kind of bobber), these work real well to indicate a strike. A trout strike is usally very lite.

I agree with the person who mentioned P-line fishing line I have never had a break off with this line versus some all flourocarbon lines. While I understand the principle of using as light a line as possible to reduce visibility, remember you are fishing a river with lots of obstructions and nasty rocks that nick the line. I have found that 10 lb P-Line works very well and I have not lost a fish with this set up or not had a bite becuase the line was too visible.

You should really learn to fly fish in a river. THE BEST advantage of a fly rod set up is you can exactly predict and repeat your cast to a specific spot over and over until a fish finally gets annoyed and bites it to get it out of the way. If you use sinking line use a split shot (size is varying based on the current) attached to the drop line (the part you would normally would cut off when you tie your knot). If you get hung up you can get released by gently pulling on the line with the rod pointed straight at the point of the hangup. The split shot will pull away and you get your fly back. Please try out your casting on a local lake or pond to get used to this form of fishing. There are videos you can get at the public library on fly casting that I still occasionaly check out again to refresh my memory. These videos are very good teaching tools, I think there is one by a lady with the last name of Wolfe that is the best I have ever seen.

Since I am not experienced with these rivers, I can only say "match the hatch" and only get 2 or three versions of the hatch and buy a lot of them (at leat 10 each). You will break off some, lose some and just plain do stupid things to lose them in the river.

I always look forward to fly fishing for steelhead in the early spring, Browns in the summer and Salmon in the fall on the rivers here in MI. I do not live near a ocean so I do not get the chance to fish the REALLY BIG FISH I see in these forums, so I envy those that can do that with big lures etc. Fishing with fly's are pretty challenging and rewarding when you take that first big brown or rainbow.

Still hard water where I live and I cannot wait for spring!! Good luck.