shimano tld 20 II rebuild (new photos)

alantani · May-12-2006, 12:53 AM

i bought a new camera a while back. it's a nikon coolpix 4200. i can get as close as an inch and a half and stay in focus. i also just yesterday figured how to color balance the photo's for incandescent light to get rid of the orange tint to all the photos.

here's the schematic for the shimano tld 20 two speed.

http://fish.shimano.com/media/fishin...9830571880.pdf

http://mikesreelrepair.com/schematic...2020%202sp.pdf

and here's the reel.

i've got four of these. they do double duty for local albacore and san diego long range. and they've killed alot of fish. straight out of the box, the tld 20 two speed is perfectly servicable. an oversized handle helps tremendously, and several manufacturers offer one. the remaining upgrades are nice, but not essential. the rebuild you're about to see is tedious, but not overly difficult. keep everything in order, stay organized and you should be fine.

let's start on the left side first. back out the cross bar bolts (b) (key #193) and grease the screw holes.

now to the right side plate. remove the pre-program dial (key #151), the dial spring (key #152), the lever shaft body and "o" seal as a unit (key #154 and 153), and the drag control lever (key #155). leave the leve thrust washer (key # 196) in place.

remove the lever quadrant (key #236) and screws (key #158, 159 and 161).

flip the reel over and remove the two side plate screw (B)'s (key #406).

flip the reel back upright and remove the five side plate screw (A)'s (key #164)

[img]http://www.yourfishpictures.com/data/500/medium/103_0741.JPG
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separate the frame, spool and right side plate.

take apart the rod clamp assembly (key #224, 225, 226, 227), grease the bolts and reassemble the rod clamp assembly.

lightly grease the clicker assembly.

grease the cross bar bolt (A)'s (key #189).

the frame is done. now on to the spool. the first thing that i noted was that the cooling shield (spool cap) was loose.

remove pinion gear (A) (key #201), pinion gear (B) (key #202), the cooling shield (key #171), and the drag plate assembly (key #174, 246, 172, and 203). note the excess grease on the drag washer.

remove the cross pin (key #229), the click gear (key #183) and screws (key #184).

remove the main shaft assembly. i've put it back together so that you can see how it fits together when it's actually inside the spool, then taken it apart again.

note the stock "()()" configuration of the preload spring B's (belleville pressure washers).

i pried off the shields of all three spool bearings (key #570 and 569), cleaned all the grease out with carb cleaner and compressed air, and relubed the bearings with corrosion x. as discussed previously, i believe that shimano has the right idea about open bearings.

i've lined everything up again so that you can see the new configuration for the main shaft. i'll remove a bearing thrust washer (key #42A) and add one extra preload spring B (key #40A).

the new configuration for the preload spring B's is "((())".

install the click gear (key #183) and click gear screws (key #184).

pull out the drag washer (key #246).

clean off the excess grease.

apply a light coat of grease to the spool and both sides of the drag washer.

clean off all the excess grease.

install the right spool bearings (key #569) and pressure release spring (key #176).

you will notice a great deal of play in the drag plate assembly. we're going to fix this. first, remove the seal lock (key #174).

the drag plate assembly separates into four pieces.

apply 4 layers of masking tape to the back of the drag plate (key #245), then cut out the center hole.

put the drag plate assembly back together. the seal lock will have to be pushed into position with a flat screwdriver.

take a very sharp knife and cut the tape around the pre-load spring A (key #172).

peel up the excess masking tape.

install the drag plate assembly.

install the cooling shield (key #171) using the special wrench (key #146). remember, it came loose from the factory.

install the cross bar (key #229).

install the spool assembly back into the frame. note that some older reels only fit in ONE way. if you find that the spool does not slide back and forth easily, pull the spool out and rotate the main shaft 180 degrees. this works!

this is the right main side plate bearing (key #571). this bearing is often the first to rust. let's pull it out and pack it with grease.

remove the push button shield (key #91) and screws (key #90).

ok, here's the tricky part. you need to remove the handle bolt plate assembly. back out the handle bold plate screw (key #92), but leave everything else in place.

place your right index finger over the screw (key #92) and slide plate spring (key #93). push the slide plate (key #94) "in" and lift off the handle bolt plate assembly as a unit. don't let the spring go "boing!"

set the assembly down in a safe place.

remove the handle bolt assembly as a unit (key #69, 147 and 148).

remove the handle assembly (key #471) and drive shaft shield (key #150).
now carefully lift the side plate, leaving the drive shaft and gear assembly on your working surface. please resist the temptation to disturb the drive shaft and gear assembly.

now, who says that these old penn wrenches are useless? i've bent the end of this one and turned it into a bearing puller.

out comes the right main sideplate bearing (key #571).

here's the back side.

here's the front with the shield and retaining ring carefully removed.

the bearing was packed with grease.

the shield and retaining ring were replaced and re-installed.

re-install the drive shaft and main gear assembly.

install the drive shaft shield (key #150) and the new handle.

grease the handle arm and install the handle bolt assembly. tighten until the the handle bold aligns with the handle bolt plate (key #2A). use good mechanical judgement in tightening the handle bolt.

install the handle bolt plate assembly. take care to cover and not lose the spring.

install the push button shield.

check the push "low" button shaft to see that it locks into low gear properly. if not, the push button shield screws (key #90) are probably too tight. back off the screws a quarter turn at a time until the push button functions properly.

this is a shot of the anti-reverse dog assembly. under a heavy load, this assembly may fail. it might be a good idea to keep an extra set on hand so that you can be field strip the reel and replace the dog if necessary. call shimano at (877) 577-0600 and ask for a c-lock (key #69), two dogs (key #338), a guard screw (key #167), a guard against dog (key #340), a dog spring guide (key #341) and a dog spring (key #342).