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Daiwa Thread, daiwa sealine-x 30 shv rebuild in Fishing Reel Tutorials; fast and cheap. not a bad combination. fast means big gears and big drag washers. cheap in price, perfectly decent ...
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Old May-06-2007, 11:36 PM   #1
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daiwa sealine-x 30 shv rebuild

fast and cheap. not a bad combination. fast means big gears and big drag washers. cheap in price, perfectly decent in quality. here's a link to the schematic ......

http://mikesreelrepair.com/schematic...,%20X30SHV.pdf

and here is our reel, beat to a pulp, down but not out.

Click the image to open in full size.

this is a casting reel. for now, and in the future, we can service the bearings by pulling just the left side plate and spool. nice design. remove the three left side plate screws (key #1).

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that's all it takes to pull the spool.

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if this reel is going to used for distance casting and you will be servicing the bearings frequently, then let's remove all of the hardware covering/protecting the left spool bearing (key #9) to allow easy access. otherwise, let's leave it covered and just lube it up.

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the right spool bearing (key #23) is highly vulnerable and frequently fails.

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at the very least, let'd pull it out and remove the shields. remove both bearing retainer screws (key #20) and the bearing retainer A (key #19).

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review the bearings post for a description of the different types of bearings and maintenance options.

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i've opted to clean this bearing and lube it with corrosion x. if casting was not an issue, you could pack the bearing with grease as discussed in the bearing post.

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back in it goes.

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reinstall the spool (key #17).

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reinstall the left side plate assembly.

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now, for the right side plate assembly. first, let's remove the handle nut plate (key #78) by pushing on two small tabs underneath the handle arm.

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ok, so these daiwa's are not the most corrosion resistant reels in the world. actually, any reel with a handle nut cap has problems. i see this commonly. remove the handle nut (key #77). then remove the handle (key #76). this is where it can get ugly. if it's badly stuck, then wiggle it anyway you can just to loosen it a little, then start backing out the star (key #74) counterclockwise to force the handle off. yes, you run the risk of damaging the star and/or the drive shaft (key #59). you could soak it in penetrating oil first, but, honestly, this usually works.

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see, i told you it would work!!!!!! now, remove the spacing sleeve (key #75) and the star drag (key #74).

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remove the drag spring washers (key #73) and bearing washer B (key #72). note that the spring washers are cupped "()".

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now for the right side plate. remove the four right side plate screw A's (key #46) and the two right side plate screw B's (key #47). take note, they are different. also, there is no need to remove the clutch lever (key #42) or the cast control cap (key #54), so let's leave them in place.

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remove the right side plate assembly (key #41). it will lift off cleanly. note that the bearing (key #71) stayed with the side plate. pull it out and set it in line with everything else, or just leave it there for now.

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remove collar B (key #70).

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remove collar A (key #69) and the water shield (key #68).

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remove o-ring C (key #67). look carefully, it's there, and it's a hassle to remove. if you tear it, don't worry. it's no big deal.

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when you bolt down the handle, a small burr forms on the drive shaft (key #59). to make it easier to remove the metal drag washer and the main gear, let's take a flat file and file off the burr.

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now the entire gear cluster slides right off.

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separate everything out, keep things in order, and clean everything up. note that the metal washers alternate keyed (key #65) - eared (key #66) - keyed (key #65).

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these felt washers started out off-white and often turn to black.

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until smoothdrag.com has a set of carbontex washers for this reel, you'll have to use penn ht-100 washers. the smaller washer is a penn ht-100 #6-965 that has been ground down to a 15mm outer diameter. you can use the full sized washer, though, and it goes under the gear. the three larger washers go inside the gear. they are part #56-440. the fit is not exact, and you have to cut off the "keys," but it's close enough until a set of carbotex washers become available. the washers are available from your local penn dealer, or from pennparts.com.

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slap a thick coat of shimano or cal's drag grease on the drag washers. let the excess ooze out the sides.

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rebuild the drag stack and alternate the metal washers "keyed/eared/keyed."

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replace the o-ring (key #67) if you still have it.

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replace collar A (key #69) and the water shield (key #68).

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replace collar B (key #70) and make sure it goes in "skinny side up."

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almost there. everything ok so far?

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now, about that bearing (key #71). sorry, it's toast. it's a very common problem. and don't be disappointed. not a single reel manufacturer anywhere, from accurate to zelina, will take the time to adequately pack these drive shaft bearings with grease.

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so let's replace it with a new bearing, pack that bearing with grease and put it back on the drive shaft.

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let's install the side plate (key #41). first, the round peg on the clutch cam (key #39) has to match up with the oval hole of the yoke plate (key #28).

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second, the point of the pinion shaft (key #49) has to match up with the hole in the pinion gear (key #32).

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ok, everything is lined up properly, right?

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perfect! you're in!!! no? ok, wiggle the clutch lever (key #42) just a little. got it!

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reinstall side plate screws A (key #46) and B (key #47).

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paint a little grease on the drive shaft (key #59). remember all the trouble we had getting the handle off?

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install the bearing washer B (key #72) and the drag spring washers (key #73) oriented "()".

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install the star (key #74).

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paint a little grease on the spacing sleeve (key #75) and install it.

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install the handle (key #76), the handle nut (key #77), paint on a little extra grease and then install the handle nut cap (key #78).

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done!

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ok, a couple of editorial comments. these reels cast great. the speed shaft means that you do not have a spool shaft hanging up on the pinion gear to slow down the spool. these reels, then, will cast just as well as a lever drag reel that has a spool with the same overall mass. the drags are huge, but you get that with any high speed star drag reel. i've never heard of any of these graphite frames breaking and these frames do not corrode. and lastly, i hate the handles. hey, three out of four is not so bad. so if you're looking for a fast, light, strong, inexpensive reel, take a look at the daiwa sealine-x!
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Old May-07-2007, 12:22 AM   #2
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Re: daiwa sealine-x 30 shv rebuild

Thanks Alan. I have this exact model and am not a fan of the handle either.
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Old May-07-2007, 07:57 AM   #3
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Re: daiwa sealine-x 30 shv rebuild

You can put the older SL handle on them.
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Old May-07-2007, 10:46 AM   #4
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Re: daiwa sealine-x 30 shv rebuild

Alan,

Thanks, this is great.I've got a Sealine 30 (in slightly better condition) that I plan on rebuilding. This will come in handy.

As you mentioned, the handles on these are awful. Do you know if any Shimano handles can be modified to fit? I really like the Torium/Tekota handles.
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Old May-07-2007, 12:10 PM   #5
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Re: daiwa sealine-x 30 shv rebuild

Thanks for another great write up Alan.

I've heard the saltist handle can be modified to fit. Anyone know any truth to this?
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Old May-07-2007, 01:42 PM   #6
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Re: daiwa sealine-x 30 shv rebuild

Quote:
Originally Posted by mziadeh View Post
Thanks for another great write up Alan. I've heard the saltist handle can be modified to fit. Anyone know any truth to this?
i've found this to work pretty well......

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Old May-07-2007, 02:27 PM   #7
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Re: daiwa sealine-x 30 shv rebuild

Another great write up Alan.

The Handles from the Torium/Trinidads and Saltiga/Saltists will bolt on with no modification. Just be sure to get a handle nut, Handle nut set plate, and set plate screw for the Torium (~$35) or Trinidad(~$40) handle, and Handle nut and set screw for Saltiga ($?) or Saltist ($?) handle.

Now if only they had done a better clamp during the last "Update". Oh well.
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Old May-07-2007, 02:50 PM   #8
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Re: daiwa sealine-x 30 shv rebuild

How about the handle from the new SHA series? Will it fit without any mod?

Alan, do you know max drag # for this little reel? I am wondering if this reel is adequate for 20+ lbs albacore.
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Old May-07-2007, 03:09 PM   #9
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Re: daiwa sealine-x 30 shv rebuild

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Originally Posted by 8seconds View Post
Another great write up Alan.

The Handles from the Torium/Trinidads and Saltiga/Saltists will bolt on with no modification. Just be sure to get a handle nut, Handle nut set plate, and set plate screw for the Torium (~$35) or Trinidad(~$40) handle, and Handle nut and set screw for Saltiga ($?) or Saltist ($?) handle.

Now if only they had done a better clamp during the last "Update". Oh well.
I don't know about you but i wouldn't pay 40 dollars for a new handle for an older model reel. Especially one that cost 100, the handle would be almost half the price of the reel.
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Old May-07-2007, 03:32 PM   #10
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Re: daiwa sealine-x 30 shv rebuild

yeah, i think you can get 20-25#'s of drag out of these. you're looking a 65# hollowcore, a short 40-50# topshot, and a 40-50% drag setting of 16-25#'s of drag. i think it should be ok at 20#'s of drag, but i don't know if the graphite frame would hold up at 25#'s of drag. i am curious to know if anyone has heard of a sealine x frame failing.

albacore would never stand a chance. we should be talking yellowfin at the 'lupe.
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Old May-07-2007, 08:28 PM   #11
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Re: daiwa sealine-x 30 shv rebuild

Wow, 20+ lbs out of that little reel is way beyond my imagination. I was thinking of something around 8 or 10 lbs max.

Thanks Alan.
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Old May-07-2007, 10:01 PM   #12
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Re: daiwa sealine-x 30 shv rebuild

I've always been a fan of the Daiwa reels. The old SL 20/30/50 SH's and these X30/40's are great reels for the money. Good for school sized fish. The 6:1 ratio's make it tough to grind em up but you can pump and gain line fast with them.

They are super for casting and I'd take 3 of these Daiwa's brand new over a Trini for the same amount of money any day of the week.

Your tutorial was spot on. I've taken them apart so many times over the years, I think I could do it in the dark.
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