Trailer Bunks

Jack M · Sep-23-2005, 08:34 AM

Now here is one of those so called "East Jobs". Yeah, right. Dropped the boat in at 0830 at So. Shores. That was the easy part. I cut and drilled most of the holes at the house.

The front two bunks 2"x4"x6 1/2' unbolted easily because they were flat beveled slotted bolts. The rear bunks 2"x6"x5' is another story, the bolts were not slotted, and took over an hour to drill off the heads.

Four hours later, SUCCESS. Not a job I would like to do again for a long-long time. Jack

doughnut · Sep-23-2005, 08:58 AM

Nice work Jack! Question? why not use treated lumber ortrex or something? (asking because i have the same task ahead)

x-man · Sep-23-2005, 09:57 AM

Nice job on the trailer Jack. Yeah, I know all too well about those "Easy Jobs". I need to recarpet my bunks and will probably use that ramp too. Where did you get the carpet for yours?. I've seen precut bunk carpeting in my mail-order catalogs but it's only 6 feet long and I need longer for mine.

DOS MAS · Sep-23-2005, 10:09 AM

Looking Good!

baja_driver · Sep-23-2005, 11:01 AM

nice job. so we leave our trailers at what ramp for this service?? I can even leave you a generator and compressor with power tools...

liprippn · Sep-23-2005, 11:08 AM

Can you imagine what kind of business you can make if you offer that to boaters going fishing....I need mine done bad....

Pete

Jack M · Sep-23-2005, 01:22 PM

Wow, that got some responses. I guess that everyone has been putting that job off till a later date.

doughnut - As far a what wood to use, I called Aros Trailers and they recommended what they use, a good quality FIR. I also asked someone about Pressure Treated. I was told it get brittle, and the chemicals used are hazardous to your health??

x-man - Two rolls from Cabela's. One roll from West Marine. Size of roll are 12" x 12'.

DOS MAS - Thanks.

baja driver - So. Shores. During the week it's empty.

liprippen - Drop the trailer, go fishing, come back, trailer bunks done. Now their is an money making enterprise for an ambitious person. Good luck, Jack

Dogman · Sep-23-2005, 02:01 PM

If anyone will do that while I am out fishing I want to know cause I need my bunks re-done real bad !

Earl E. Retire · Sep-23-2005, 02:04 PM

nice work on the bunks, Jack. I did mine in that same location a year ago or so. Did you use aluminum staples to hold the carpet on?
Here's a couple of other things I've been doing to prolong trailer life:
I just started using Salt Away with my trailer. After a few uses, it builds up some sort of coating that seems to protect everything you spray it on. I also use Fluid Film on all metal pieces that can rust (nuts, bolts, hardware, leaf springs, metal clips. Has worked real well -- I got new iron leafs put on two years ago and they still look new. (I.e., no rust).

Jack M · Sep-23-2005, 06:21 PM

I haven't been using anything to prolong the trailer. The only thing I did on the bunk install is used all SS, so I'm good there for awhile. The trailer has the fresh water wash down which I do faithfully each time. My leaf springs have a little rust, nothing to worry about for awhile. My previous boat had a EZ-Load Trailer which was great, no springs. Jack

No SS Staples, couldn't find any. Used Arrow 9/16"

neversink2 · Sep-23-2005, 08:03 PM

Jack - Good news - you did a great job on your trailer. Bad news - You should use galvenized bolts (or even zinc or cad plated worst case), BUT DONT USE STAINLESS HARDWARE ON YOUR TRAILER!!!

The reason you have a galvenized trailer is so that the zinc protects the steel from rust. If you put stainless hardware on there then electrolysis begins and the zinc becomes the sacrificial anode. This means that your trailer will rust/corode extra fast. It's much easier to replace hardware than it is to repair the main components (and maybe the structural components) of your trailer.

Good tools for getting a trailer stripped down: disc grinder, impact wrench, oxy-acetylene torch, cheater bars and maybe even a sawzall. I found that a torch followed by an impact wrench will get (or break) stubborn bolts off but a 4" disc grinder will work if you don't the other equipment.

Hope this helps...

aguachico · Sep-23-2005, 09:37 PM

Quote:

The reason you have a galvenized trailer is so that the zinc protects the steel from rust. If you put stainless hardware on there then electrolysis begins and the zinc becomes the sacrificial anode. This means that your trailer will rust/corode extra fast. It's much easier to replace hardware than it is to repair the main components (and maybe the structural components) of your trailer.

FUCK FUCK FUCK

Just redid my bunks a month ago. Have been adding stainless here and there and did stainless staples.

Oh well;

bought outdoor carpet at home depot. Works great.