The condition of the aluminum tanks that came with the boat looked good, but before preparing them to be installed I had to make sure they were going to last at least a couple more years. After making sure they were not pitted, we cleaned them well with these:
This is for the heavier stuff, where the other one didn't do the job. But be careful, aluminum can't take this one forever.
After they were were cleaned they were inspected to make sure the aluminum was not thin on certain areas, visual inspection passed. Next came the pressure test. The tanks are filled with compressed air to reach 2.2 psi and then you wait for 20-24 hours. If the tank maintains the pressure the tank is good. To do this you have to close the fill opening and the out-take opening, I used thick plastic gloves for this, and held them in place with a brace. I used the vent opening as my gateway to the tank. And there I placed this contaption.
From right to left:
1-Hose to hook up to the vent opening.
2-A "Tee" to connect the pressure gauge.
3-Low pressure gauge, you can buy this at any plumbers shop.
4-Valve to control the air going in the tank and keep it inside.
5-Quick connect to an air hose.
A close-up of the pressure gauge ($15)
WARNING: First close the valve, then you connect the air hose, you open the valve slowly to fill the tank. You should be careful as very low pressure will blow up the tank, the air pressure translates into a lot of weight per square inch on the thin aluminum walls, I don't remember exactly at which point it blows but just keep it under 2.5psi. Normally between 1.8 to 2.2 psi is the recommended pressure required for the test.
If after 20-24 hours the pressure is different by 0.2 the tank is fine. What is misleading in the test is how temperature affects the pressure. The colder it is the less pressure you're going to get, the warmer it gets (ambient) the more pressure you're going to get with the same air in the tank. So if the temperature is 66F when you put the air in, and then it's 72F when you check it, the gauge is going to show a higher pressure (if no air escaped). So try and make the test on days that are fore-casted to be around the same temperature.
This test will let you know if the gasket on the sender unit is ok. On my tanks, one was ok, the other one was leaking air on two screws. To find out where the air is escaping, fill the tank to 2.2psi with air. Use soapy water to determine were the air is coming out, a bubble will form on that specific area. It doesn't matter if your tanks are below decks or on the side of the boat near a ventilation area (like in my boat), if the tank is not sealed properly, fuel vapors might explode as they are kept in your boat. It is wise to make sure the only opening left for fuel vapors in your tank is the vent.
After the test was done on my tanks and they passed the test after fixing the problem it was time to coat them. Aluminum deteriorates faster than what you might think. The best way to protect you aluminum tank is with coal-tar-epoxy. You can get it at Grainger. I cleaned the aluminum and made sure there was no grease left by running a cloth with acetone. I coated the tanks with 3 layers of coal-tar-epoxy.
Once the epoxy cured we installed the tanks.
You can see in this picture that there are two compartments next to the side walls of the hull. The tanks were placed here and then the areas were filled with two part foam. The tanks were also strapped down.
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The deck was designed to provide maximum-size-allowed fish boxes. A Luan sheet cut to make a template for this side of the engine, another one just like this one would go on the other side of the engine. Then a rectangular part will go in the center, just as you step out of the cabin, and the engine cover will be last.
The molds for the deck, port & stbd.
Sculpey is used to make the radius on the corners, when the sculpey ran out, and I wanted to finish a part, I used my kids play-doh, I don't recommend it, stick with Sculpey (you can buy it at Wal-Mart). I first roll the sculpey into a thick spaghetti, about 3/16 diameter.
Then I use a small spoon to make an even radius. I start pushing the sculpey slowly against the melamine, as it will normally won't want to stick to it, so you may have to make a couple passes, pressing harder each time until you get it all the way in.
Again the sculpey is painted to aid in separating the sculpey from the finished part when the part is taken out of the mold.
Both parts were completed, a lip was made on the engine side on both parts, this lip is going to be the support for the engine cover.
If you look closely at the part on the left on the right side, you can see the lip.
You can see the lip on the right too.
After two days the parts were taken out of the molds. Easier said than done.
Looking astern on the port side, here is a "dry-fit"
Looking astern on the Stbd side, here is a "dry-fit"
The Port part needed a little more fiberglass on the fuel-tak side, look at previous picture. Here is the fiberglassing.
I'm prepping the same mold-surface's used for the deck parts, now they will be used to make the hatches.
Dry fitting the core material, 1/2" divinycell.
Every time I used any type of core on a part, I made sure the following (encapsulating) layers of fiberglass were going to be able to conform to this core, most of the times I had to make a radius on the core, some other times like when I made the swim platform "supports", I didn't make the radius because the part didn't require it.
When putting fiberglass on a bare mold, the first layers are always cloth on the tight radius areas. Here I'm applying cloth just on top of the sculpey, this is common practice. I followed this by some mat and then a complete layer covering all the part.
The first layer of 1708 going in.
After a 2nd layer of 1708 the core has gone in, notice the radius all around the core, The next immediate layer following a core always is a Mat as the Mat conforms really well to the sharp turns of the part (more easily than the 1708) and the Mat has the best "Glue-ish" quality of all fiberglass presentations, that is why the 1708 has a layer of Mat, so you can put 1708 on top of 1708, and it will adhere better.
After two more layers of 1708.
Here is the day's work, well, part of it.
Taking the part out of the mold always requires a hammer.
And as the wedge goes in.... "sshhhwwwwoooppp" it pops free... I love melamine....
Here are the two parts fresh off the mold.
A "dry-fit" over the deck part to see if the "lids" fit.... I kept telling myself... it's going to fit, it's going to fit, it's going to fit...
On the previous picture you can see the lip that goes around the part, on the right side of the part. This lip will support the engine cover and the aux. fuel tank cover(just as you're stepping out of the cabin).
I'm taking all the little resin nipples out of the hatches, notice the proper clothing & quality respirator
I don't know who it was, but who-ever said that fiberglass was itchy didn't have a clue... either that or I've completely lost it...
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What is covered in the last segment of this update is the foundation for the engine cover. All of these parts, including the engine cover, are inter-dependent and make for some serious planning, so that at the end, everything is leveled out, and "bonds" with its neighboring parts to create a uniform deck, its like a puzzle, and being able to make this from scratch, on my first try with no previous experience, and to have a snug fit is probably the single thing I'm really proud off in this project. This might seem to some people like it is a piece of cake, but you have to do it yourself to appreciate it.
Anyway,
On the next update I will show the engine cover and how all the deck comes together. Will also include the fuel tank covers.
Josh out...
Ebbie would go...
Looking forward to seeing more.
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