Replacing brakes and leaf springs

[tuna taxi]

Well, I got as far as removing the old brakes and started banging out the old pos leaf springs. Before I start to install the new ones does anyone have any suggestions? Here are some pics of where I am. As you can see by the pics a change was definately due.

[Dirtguy]

Anyone have any expereince before and after a "brake wash " system? You know, plumbing the trailer with a fresh water wash-out system?

DG

[Duramax]

go back to where you bought the flush kit and the new drum brakes and exchange them for a disk brake kit.

It is actually easyer to convert and install the disk brake kit then it is to do the drum brakes.

Plus you don't need to ever adjust the disc brakes and they stop much better.

The disc disc brakes you can just hose off from the outside and don't have to worry about it.

if you got any questions just pm me.

good luck

[cvjarrod]

Originally Posted by tuna taxi

Well, I got as far as removing the old brakes and started banging out the old pos leaf springs. Before I start to install the new ones does anyone have any suggestions? Here are some pics of where I am. As you can see by the pics a change was definately due.

If you stay with drums, make sure you use galvanized backing plates. A brake flush system is mandatory for marine applications and drum brakes. You also want riveted brake pads.

If you go with discs, make sure you change your seals every season. Discs generate a lot more heat and can liquify the grease. If a seal is bad, you can dump a lot of grease in a hurry. I would also buy a new master cylinder specifically designed for disc brakes instead of converting the old one. Don't forget you'll also need different trailer harness wiring to add the wire that disables the brakes when backing up.

Century Trailer has the best prices in SD.

Good luck.

[Mot's Sr.]

Do a search, Full Tilt (Vince) did a pretty good tutorial on replacing his brakes with pic's, it was pretty good.


http://www.bloodydecks.com/forums/ch...f-springs.html

[tuna taxi]

I just picked up some new disc brakes and four new leaf springs along with new u-bolts, I hope to have the install completed by the weekend. This is the second time in three years that I replaced my brake system, saltwater SUCKS BALLS!!! I also bought some corrosion-x and plan to spray the springs and parts of the braking system.

For those of you that are wondering what cost is so far I'm at $600+ for new stainless steel 10" disc brakes (pads included), four new leaf springs and 8 u-bolts(nuts and lock washers included) and can of corrosion-x. Hope to post some pics of the work that I'm doing, WISH ME LUCK!!!

[TGee]

Until those u-bolts get rusty they can back off,and that gets ugly.
I suggest that you use lock nuts or loctite.
[We spent a while on the side of the road on the Santa Rosalia grade ,when a friends new Pacific trailer dropped its nuts.]

[show101]

Get a 4" disk grinder and cut the old leaf's off, cut the u-bolts and get dirty. Also, the bushings will probably be shot on the center rocker arm and they are a pain in the ass to change, you need a shop press. Don't forget the new seals for your hubs. I changed mine over in February and it makes all the difference in the world for the way the trailer handles and stops.

Lay out the new brake lines and the flex hoses because inevitably you will need something else that they did not include. I also got some giant zip ties out of McMaster Carr to run the lines across the axle. Get a flare tool and a tube bender for running the brake lines. And make sure you have a buddy around to bleed the brakes.

http://www.bloodydecks.com/forums/ch...t-trailer.html (Winter project - trailer)

[tuna taxi]

Here's what I've purchased so far, the only thing missing are the bolts that hold the leaf springs in place, would galvanized nuts and bolts be a good fit?

[Tail Chaser 07]

You will need a backup solinoid. (Disconects brakes while backing)
Drum and disk brake master cylinders are different.
I can not tell by the pic. Are those the thin disk or are the like the automotive type 1in thick with the vents in the middle?
I was told the thin disk, None automotive disk will warp.
Make sure you have the thick vented auto type

[tuna taxi]

Originally Posted by Tail Chaser 07

You will need a backup solinoid. (Disconects brakes while backing)
Drum and disk brake master cylinders are different.
I can not tell by the pic. Are those the thin disk or are the like the automotive type 1in thick with the vents in the middle?
I was told the thin disk, None automotive disk will warp.
Make sure you have the thick vented auto type

These are not the vented ones

When I asked about the difference between the two I was asked how much I drive and and how big of a boat I have, my boat is 22' and I drive from he 91 & 605 to Davies launch, that's about 10 miles. The rep at WM said I would be fine with these. I think that the vented disc are about $10-$20 bucks more, I have been considering exchanging what I have for the vented ones.

I already pulled one of the axles off and started to removed all the crab that on it, looks much better. Has anyone ever painted one of these axles? What did you use?

[tuna taxi]

Here's a before and after pic of on of the axles, it's been a bitch to clean but it's coming. Any suggestions as to what I can use to paint this with? Rustoleum?