Need help replacing my trim/tilt cylinder on my 1990 Volvo Penta 290DP

[GoodTimes]

Hi guys,

I was wondering how to take out the pin that holds the cylinder to the transom. Do I need to remove the drive? Any info/help would be appreciated.

Any mechanics that would come out to Glendale and help me change it out please PM me a quote.

Thanks

[FishWiz]

Depends on how much room you have between the engine and the transom plate. I built a make-shift tool to remove mine, and it wasn't easy, with the engine out. I'm sure no fun with engine in.

There is a ~10mm flanged bolt next to the pin on each side, that acts a retainer for the pin. Remover flange bolt. The pin is threaded in the middle, so the make-shift tool I made was a long threaded bolt with various double-nuts and progressively larger washers so I could thread the bolt in a ways over an appropriate sized box-end wrench, and use the box-end wrench as a lever against the transom plate. Takes awhile because you have to unthread it and keep adjusting/tightening the double-nuts to adjust the leverage, pulling the pin out, about 1/2" at a time or so.

The goal being to replace the o-rings I assume? I ordered new pins and o-rings and cleaned out the holes with a dowel and 600 grit paper.

If all that made sense, surprised. Probably would take pictures to show it any better, but didn't take any of that part of my engine R&R last winter.

[GoodTimes]

So the pin has to be removed from the inside the engine compartment. So I wouldn't need to remove the drive??

It made a lot of sense. Now I know what really needs to be done. I'm pretty mechanicly inclined but when you don't know the steps it pretty overwhelming, and don't want to do something wrong.

The goal being to replace the o-rings I assume?

yes, but I was told that they don't sell replacement o-rings for the ram. So I found a brand new ram on ebay for $50. Hopefully when I do remove theram I will see if i could fix the old one.

Thank you. I appreciate your help.

[FishWiz]

Yes, the pin is inserted through the transom plate from INSIDE. No real need to take off the outdrive, if you have the room to get to the pin(s) behind the motor, without removing the motor.

The o-ring I was talking about is on the pin. The pin is about 2.5 inches long with a groove for an o-ring that you need to replace. Mine leaked for 2 years and kept a bilge pump going off once every couple hours until replaced.

I have also been told the same thing about the 'seals' in the rams, that they are not available. Not sure I believe that a good hydraulic shop couldn't come up with something.

[GoodTimes]

Originally Posted by FishWiz

Yes, the pin is inserted through the transom plate from INSIDE. No real need to take off the outdrive, if you have the room to get to the pin(s) behind the motor, without removing the motor.

The o-ring I was talking about is on the pin. The pin is about 2.5 inches long with a groove for an o-ring that you need to replace. Mine leaked for 2 years and kept a bilge pump going off once every couple hours until replaced.

I have also been told the same thing about the 'seals' in the rams, that they are not available. Not sure I believe that a good hydraulic shop couldn't come up with something.

Thanks for all your help. What a releif it is knowing that I really don't need to take the drive out.

[GoodTimes]

Would I need to bleed it? Is there a method to use?

[FishWiz]

The 290DP Trim/Tilt system really doesn't need bleeding. But I assume the pump/reservoir is the highest in the system. The pump on my setup is above the height of the rams/hoses. The air comes to the top out of the rams and hoses into the reservoir by just running her up and down 8-10 times or so.

[GoodTimes]

thanks again. I really appreciate all your help. Hope to pay you back when I see you on the water one day..

[Swazi]

I have a 280T with hydraulic tilt trim. I rebuilt both of my rams, any good bearing house should have the O-rings you need.
Most mechanics will tell you it can't be done and that you need to by new rams.
I had a really bad experience with a place that said they could rebuild mine, cost me alot of money and it wasn't right.
Finally got a Volvo mechanic (he took pity on me) that gave me the real scoop and did it myself. Cost me all of $2 for O-rings.

Getting the pins out on mine was the worst part of it. It took a 20lb. slide hammer and lots of heat to get mine out. It sounds like yours are gonna be more of a bitch, mine are on the outside of the outdrive.

Glenn is your man...as he's done it before.

[FishWiz]

Here is a pic of the ram pin locations shown after I pulled my Transom Plate, refiberglassed the transom, repainted the bilge, rebuilt the Transom Plate, and reinstalled it. (Can you tell I'm not a graphic artist?)

[GoodTimes]

Originally Posted by Swazi

I have a 280T with hydraulic tilt trim. I rebuilt both of my rams, any good bearing house should have the O-rings you need.
Most mechanics will tell you it can't be done and that you need to by new rams.
I had a really bad experience with a place that said they could rebuild mine, cost me alot of money and it wasn't right.
Finally got a Volvo mechanic (he took pity on me) that gave me the real scoop and did it myself. Cost me all of $2 for O-rings.

Getting the pins out on mine was the worst part of it. It took a 20lb. slide hammer and lots of heat to get mine out. It sounds like yours are gonna be more of a bitch, mine are on the outside of the outdrive.

Glenn is your man...as he's done it before.

I would think it would be easy to rebuilt. Thanks for your help.

[GoodTimes]

Originally Posted by FishWiz

Here is a pic of the ram pin locations shown after I pulled my Transom Plate, refiberglassed the transom, repainted the bilge, rebuilt the Transom Plate, and reinstalled it. (Can you tell I'm not a graphic artist?)

Thats the pin... You did a great job. Looks sweet. Thanks again.