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Old Nov-09-2003, 08:29 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Name: Bobby
Vessel: 23 walkaround
Location: Imperial Beach
Job:teacher / lifeguard
Bio: likes to fish, surf
electrical help

Two things

1. The coaxle part that connects to the radio..need a Bloodydecker to give me a hand to do it right, I seem to screew it up.

2. My trailer lights don't work untill I have been on the road for 15 minutes. ?????????????

Any ideas or comments?

Thanks, Bobby
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Old Nov-09-2003, 09:50 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Name: Don
Age: 63
Vessel: 2359 Trophy, Irene Sea
Location: Mira Mesa Ca
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electrical problems

Coax connector, unfortunately I'm out of town Until Dec. but a crimp type connector from West Marine is almost fool proof.

Trailer lights, if none of the lights are working your problem is most likely a faulty ground connection. Only thing common to all lights. Check the ground pin on your connector is clean alsospread the male connector to insure solid connection. Good luck
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Old Nov-09-2003, 10:06 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Name: Kevin
Vessel: reel carnage
Location: san diego
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need help?
PM me with a way to contact via phone and I'll square you a way.
I'm in SD
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Old Nov-10-2003, 08:04 AM   #4 (permalink)
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Name: Bobby
Vessel: 23 walkaround
Location: Imperial Beach
Job:teacher / lifeguard
Bio: likes to fish, surf
Fixit

I've tried the crimp style, think I did ir wrong. Have a new radio, a good antena, but I transmit like shit, hear everyting.

My left tail lights work when the lights decide to work at all.
Thanks, Bobby

Kevi, I've PM you.
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Old Nov-10-2003, 08:10 AM   #5 (permalink)
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Name: brian
Vessel: boatless
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check the connectors on the back of your trailer lights they push in and they rust out
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Old Nov-12-2003, 09:33 AM   #6 (permalink)
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Name: Bobby
Vessel: 23 walkaround
Location: Imperial Beach
Job:teacher / lifeguard
Bio: likes to fish, surf
1 down 1 to go

Replaced the harness for the lights, everything works fine with them. The old one was in pretty bad shape. Still have the radio problem. Thanks, Bobby
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Old Nov-12-2003, 12:45 PM   #7 (permalink)
rinkeswa
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Stay off the transmit key until you fix the coaxial connector - the transistors in the final PA stage will blow out from reflected power. Get a SWR reading before you do anything else. Check your RF path to the antenna - good cable, connectors, no sharp bends or kinks. I'd use the solder connectors to avoid later corrosion problems - go to a good electronics supply house and get a soldering lesson if you don't know how. Got an impedance matching network, RF switch, amplifier or anything else uncommon? PM me if you need guidance...
 
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Old Nov-12-2003, 01:55 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Name: Bobby
Vessel: 23 walkaround
Location: Imperial Beach
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Bio: likes to fish, surf
HUH

rinkeswa,
Thanks for the reply, very informative, but I don't understand some of the information.
How do I get a SWR reading...what is that...how much? Where do I go?
How do I check the RF Path? what's that?

Thanks,
Bobby
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Old Nov-12-2003, 02:17 PM   #9 (permalink)
rinkeswa
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. SWR is Standing Wave Ratio - the amount of reflected power at any given frequency compared to the power output of the exciter/transmitter. No antenna is perfect - all reflect some RF(radio frequency) energy back down the RF path. That amount compared to the amount up is the SWR. EG - 100watts up (transmitted)and 50 watts down (reflected)is 2:1 SWR. When you refer to the average of the whole frequency band your radio outputs, thats VSWR (VariableSWR). Generally speaking, any SWR less than 2:1 is acceptable for transmit, and many radios run 5:1 for recv side (mostly ignored measurement). The SWR is important because the reflected xmit power becomes heat when it reenters the radio circuitry, and heat means component death - the final PowerAmplifier (PA) transistors being the most common victim.
2. measure SWR between the radio and the output cable. Since we're talking VHF I presume you do not have an impedance matching network or external amplifier (footwarmer) to worry about.
3. Cheap but adequate SWR meters are about $30-50 at any electronics store or catalogue (www.mouser.com). Simple to use - key the radio, adjust power out to full scale, flip switch to reverse and read ratio....
4. The RF path is the physical connection from the radio output jack to the antenna - your cable and connectors. Use solder-on PL-259 connectors, stress relief collars, wrap with self vulcanizing rubber tape, and seal with ScothKote (3M) or similar. Unless you have a bad connector or cable, your SWR will be independent of the cable length.
5. Strongly advise you spend some time talking this over with your local electronics store for pertinent guidance, or search the net for RF or CB or HAM radio basics..
 
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Old Nov-13-2003, 06:11 AM   #10 (permalink)
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Name: Bobby
Vessel: 23 walkaround
Location: Imperial Beach
Job:teacher / lifeguard
Bio: likes to fish, surf
Thanks for the additional info, think all I need is the connection put on right to start. Will go from there. Bobby
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Old Nov-16-2003, 04:52 PM   #11 (permalink)
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Name: Bobby
Vessel: 23 walkaround
Location: Imperial Beach
Job:teacher / lifeguard
Bio: likes to fish, surf
Thanks Kep...IOU

What a quick fix indeed. Thanks Kep for fixing my boat radio. It works perfect. I was getting close to chucking it over the side...did that once. Spent the better part of the day re crimping just about anything that could be crimped. Should be good for a couple years. Thanks again for making yhe house call. IOU. Bobby
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Old Nov-16-2003, 06:03 PM   #12 (permalink)
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how did kep fix it?

i was gonna bring my boat to his pad with the same problem, but i thought he would start playin grab ass so i never called him.
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