Transom Reglass

Aku · Mar-24-2006, 05:13 PM

Time to repower the Skipjack. I've had a 5.0 VolvoFI with Duoprop for 5 months now and finally got my garage finished so that I can start my project. I am going to sell the running take out 5.0 OMC with Stringer outdrive (rebuilt 2003) but I need to either plug the OMC hole or get an adapter plate.

It seems that people used to use the adapter plate but I can't get any information on it lately and I've been told that reglassing the transom will cost between $1500 and $2000. I've been told that Futura in National City (or SD?) is probably a good place to go. Anyone else have any suggestions? Is reglassing the transom something that can be done in a home workshop? I have all the components for the repower (engine, intermediate housing, transom mounting plate, power steering ram, trim pump and rams, outdrive, exhaust system, etc.) but I do not have controls or gauges. Any suggestions?

FishWiz · Mar-24-2006, 05:59 PM

Are the transom modification to increase the size of the cutout, reduce, or completely change the shape? Increasing the size, and reglassing the hole is easy imho. The others are a ton of structural work.

Aku · Mar-24-2006, 06:13 PM

The existing OMC hole is larger than the volvo hole. So I am reducing the hole size.

SALTYDAWG · Mar-24-2006, 06:27 PM

You need to plug the transom, And then recut. IMO its worth the 1500 bucks to have it done

Aku · Mar-24-2006, 06:54 PM

Bill, did you get yours reglassed at Futura? I was told anywhere from $1500 to $2000 if the transom is in good shape.

Produce Man · Mar-24-2006, 07:33 PM

Futura rebuilt the transom in my boat. Probably outlast the hull. Solid work but their gelcoat work was marginal.

Fishbones · Mar-24-2006, 08:02 PM

http://www.transomrepair.com./ You might look into this.

Rich

jstcrzyengh · Mar-24-2006, 08:17 PM

I have an OMC as well and was quoted $1200 at crystaliner, but there in costa mesa, but Ive never heard a single bad word, but if you search for them you will get a ton of responses of people praising their work.

SALTYDAWG · Mar-24-2006, 09:57 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Aku 24

Bill, did you get yours reglassed at Futura? I was told anywhere from $1500 to $2000 if the transom is in good shape.

No I had mine done at AMS, They farmed it out, The plug job and glass work was good, The paint work sucked

inSTANt bendo · Mar-24-2006, 10:36 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by SALTYDAWG

No I had mine done at AMS, They farmed it out, The plug job and glass work was good, The paint work sucked

Lemme guess who painted it..........

.................................................. ...AMS

Griz · Mar-24-2006, 10:44 PM

Here's what we did on a job similar to yours. Assuming that your transom is solid and dosen't need any work other than patching the hole. And that you have clear access to the entire area from inside the engine box.

Figure out the overall thickness of your transom. Wood core and glass.
Cut an over size square on a 45 degree angle with the wide side of the cut facing in (in side your engine box)
Laminate w/ epoxy your plywood "plug" make it oversize and don't cut the 45 yet. If you are good with fiberglass... do the outsides with rovemat or nitex and match the original thickness, If you suck take it to a good shop. I know one guy who found a shop that was extending a boat and he traded a 12 pack of beer for a chunk of transom to do his I/O patch. Just cut it to fit. Any shops in your area??
Measure and cut the plug to fit. Adhere it in place w/ epoxy and west systems 404 adhesive filler. You are making glue to stick the 2 parts together. MAKE SURE THE THE OUTSIDE OF THE TRANSOM AND PLUG ARE FLUSH!!! Hot glue gun a sheet of thin ply w/ waxed paper or Formica over the hole to make sure that you get it right and make clean up easier. Clean up all the extra 404 while it's wet. Trust me on this one.
After the 404 hardens, grind and fair out the inside (engine box) and tape the seam w/ 4-6"nitex strips 3/8 "+ thick should do. Do it cleanly so you don't have to sand again. Since all your fiber glassing is on the inside you don't have to me a master glasser. Not many people will ever see it.
Now if you did it right, you should be able to just fair in the joint on the outside and not have a bunch of "body work" to do. Repaint or gelcoat.
The inner 45 adds a lot of surface area for the adhesive. If you are the worrying type it can never pull out the back of your boat.

Now if you don't know your chet or are un shure of the condition of the boat. I say fuckit, spend the 2 bills and save yourself the itch and aggrevation.

7-8 years later I still see that boat around and it still has the Volvo leg.