Changing Leaf Springs Tutorial - Page 2

barracudabreath · Jan-10-2006, 07:08 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by vlionetti

If you buy a shit load of baring grease and coat the shit out of springs, hub and all the parts with a paint brush it will repel the salt water. I just did the same job on my fathers boat and it worked bitchen.

A classic car restoration show on TV showed the guy installing new leaf springs on a corvette. When he was done he coated the springs with grease and then wrapped them with duct tape. He then recommended driving around with the springs wrapped for a few miles saying the flexing of the springs will cause the grease to enter between the leafs. I have also heard that a 50/50 mix of motor oil and kerosene will penetrate between the leafs and repell moisture, preventing rust.

Jeffrey · Jan-10-2006, 09:52 AM

The less crap we dunk into the bay would be appreciated . Great for a street car but not for dunking in the bay . Id hate to see the suface film when you back that trailer in the water! Sorry for sounding like a jerk cause im not!

Double Z · Jan-10-2006, 04:08 PM

CorrosionX makes the blue stuff for trailers and the like. Part of their advertisment talks about the difference it made on a trailer. It's an ADVERTISEMENT! It must be true.

Jeffrey · Jan-10-2006, 05:09 PM

Amazing the trailer is galvanized but all the hard ware is common steel maybe zinc coated which lasts for 1 year and rusts like a big dawg .You gotta be kidding me .Is it just me or would it not make sense to use stainless u brackets and bolts or dip the trailer when the u bolts are already on ?

**FULL TILT** · Jan-11-2006, 12:08 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jeffrey

Amazing the trailer is galvanized but all the hard ware is common steel maybe zinc coated which lasts for 1 year and rusts like a big dawg .You gotta be kidding me .Is it just me or would it not make sense to use stainless u brackets and bolts or dip the trailer when the u bolts are already on ?

yeah, i dont really understand that shit either. they make one part galvanized and then all the fasteners are rust magnets that last one year. i dont get it

**FULL TILT** · Apr-16-2007, 02:19 PM

ok. For those of you that axed me about this the trailer maintenance thread.....

BUMP

Duramax · Apr-16-2007, 02:46 PM

since your doing all that , why didn't you convert it over to disc brake ?
so much better stopping power and alot easier to keep clean.

tuna taxi · Apr-19-2007, 06:31 PM

I replaced my bunks a few months ago, it was way easier than I thought it would be, I got everything done at home and threw the new bunks in the boat. When I showed up at the ramp I went ahead and launched my boat, parked my truck, knocked the old bunks off and installed the new ones, whole thing took about 10 minutes.

The only mistake I made was that I didn't take a broom and dust pan to clean up my mess, I took more time picking up pieces of carpet, wood and rusted bolts than it did installing the new bunks.

**FULL TILT** · Apr-20-2007, 08:40 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by tuna taxi

I replaced my bunks a few months ago, it was way easier than I thought it would be, I got everything done at home and threw the new bunks in the boat. When I showed up at the ramp I went ahead and launched my boat, parked my truck, knocked the old bunks off and installed the new ones, whole thing took about 10 minutes.

The only mistake I made was that I didn't take a broom and dust pan to clean up my mess, I took more time picking up pieces of carpet, wood and rusted bolts than it did installing the new bunks.

Hey Jorge-
Did you just replace the bunks, or bunks and risers? I have a lot more replacement crap I need to get than I first thought and want to get an idea on how much bunks, risers, hangers and everything else will cost me...

by the time I'm done updating everything, the only thing left to replace will be the boat

doughnut · Apr-20-2007, 09:03 AM

Get some corrosion X HD. One spray can is enough for your application. It goes on thick, not thin like regular corrosion X. It is thick and self heals. SPray it all down before you dunk it, and then every few months. It will not rust. The stuff is a miracle. If you cant find it. I can point you to it.

tuna taxi · Apr-20-2007, 04:54 PM

When I say bunks I mean the rails that the boat sits on, I don't recall what I spent for the material. You will have the option to purchase carpet that will wrap completely around your 2x4's and 2x6's or you can purchase carpet that will only wrap around the top and sides of the wood, I went with the top and sides only.

When you make your rails/bunks don't forget to install the bolts BEFORE you tack down the carpet. I took a hammer, a socket and rachet and some vice grips to help with the removal and installation. If you can install leave springs you should have no problem installing new bunks/rails.

skipjack-20 · Apr-14-2008, 08:13 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by FULL TILT

yeah, i dont really understand that shit either. they make one part galvanized and then all the fasteners are rust magnets that last one year. i dont get it

If you galvanized the trailer with all the hardware, the galv would pool around all the little cracks, you wouldn't be able to remove a bolt without destroying the galv. also one side of the bolt/u-bolt would have a ton of galv, the other would rust. leaf springs wouldn't benifit from galvanize either from the rubbing together when there working, it would just rub off and you would still have rust. they way they charge you for galvanizing is they weigh before and after. it would weigh a shit load with all the spots for pooling around the bolts and it would cost a lot more money. they have stainless hardware but you'll pay for it! the best leaf springs imo are the mono springs just one leaf and easy to maintain, the backing plates and axle hubs, your just screwed there, rinse everytime, the flush out kits work pretty good.

skipjack-20 · Apr-14-2008, 08:19 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by tuna taxi

When I say bunks I mean the rails that the boat sits on, I don't recall what I spent for the material. You will have the option to purchase carpet that will wrap completely around your 2x4's and 2x6's or you can purchase carpet that will only wrap around the top and sides of the wood, I went with the top and sides only.

When you make your rails/bunks don't forget to install the bolts BEFORE you tack down the carpet. I took a hammer, a socket and rachet and some vice grips to help with the removal and installation. If you can install leave springs you should have no problem installing new bunks/rails.

Counter sink stainless bolts then wrap in carpet, use stainless staples (long type) and start from the middle and work your way to the ends, aros has really good stuff for bunks, I don't know where they get it but it holds up well, the home depot stuff is worthless crap, well it's probably better that what I have on mine but it still sucks