Wood Rot

Finology II · Nov-09-2005, 09:54 AM

Have a question for all the wood experts out there.

If you had two places on a stringer towards the stern which were exposed for several years and now it would be glassed over what complications could occour?

Im thinking if there is any type of moisture inside the wood at the time of installing the glass over it, rot would continue?

This would also spread towards more of the dry sections ( if there are any) and create more of a problem down the line? Right?

What would be the best remedy for this situation.

All info would be greatly appericated.

Thanks.

Mot's Sr. · Nov-09-2005, 10:10 AM

Remove the stringers (the section that is rotted, probably from the transom to the bulkhead, replace with new wood, then reglass the whole area.

**Captain Curt** · Nov-09-2005, 10:13 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mot's Sr.

Remove the stringers (the section that is rotted, probably from the transom to the bulkhead, replace with new wood, then reglass the whole area.

Great advice Gary................Had to do the same one time in a 16 ft'er I had. It's the only way to do it right.

Curtis...........

The boat Hanna.........

Weazel · Nov-09-2005, 10:17 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mot's Sr.

Remove the stringers (the section that is rotted, probably from the transom to the bulkhead, replace with new wood, then reglass the whole area.

I just did that last season on my skippy. It was a bitch but it's now rock solid.

roxfisher · Nov-09-2005, 10:19 AM

Good Advice. Wood Rot (dry rot and rot from moisture) travels by spores not visible to the naked eye until damage starts to occur. Unless you remove all visible signs of damage and 2 feet beyond, the spores can continue to grow and do damage.
Treat the wood with a wood preservative BEFORE coating, staining, painting etc. Remember a wood preservative is a preventative measure, it will kill those spores that it contacts, but cannot absorb through the entire thickness of the wood, and rot can occure on the interior, leaving the outside looking normal.

Mo Betta · Nov-09-2005, 05:52 PM

When in doubt cut it out....Also be careful with secondary bonds and fiberglass. Fiberglass is laid up layer after layer while everything is still "tacky". You should be using an epoxy over any cured fiberglass. West Systems has a great little handout on how to take care of repairs and bonding to fiberglass, pick one up @ West Marine.

radarman · Nov-09-2005, 08:24 PM

Check out the rotdoctor.com for some good info. What you can see is like the tip of an iceberg. I just through a digging and filling and sealing and reglassing drill. This rotdoctor stuff seems to work pretty good. Time will tell.

roxfisher · Nov-10-2005, 07:19 AM

OK just checked out that product. It is a thinned 2 component epoxy with elastomeric (flexible) qualities that soaks into the wood, displacing water. If you need it to go deep into the wood, you need to drill holes and dry out the wood. Yes, this is a typical wood filler, because of the viscosity, it will penetrate into DRY wood fairly well, then when dry it will be somewhat flexible. It won't displace the water, as the solvents mentioned in the MSDS are lighter than water, ranging from about 6#/gal to about 7#/gal. Water weighs 8.34#/gal.

NOTES: There is nothing in it that prevents wood rot from forming. Basically you are encapsulating the wood into plastic.
There are some bad solvent players in it (toluene and benzene), and it is flammable.
The VOC is 675. Possible it cannot be sold OR USED in California, does not meet the regs.

This is a typical wood filler, and will repair damaged wood. Will not kill the wood rot. It will work for the purpose of sealing the wood.

Finology II · Nov-16-2005, 08:22 AM

You guys are awsome, thank you so much for sharing the info with me, now I feel a wee bit more smarter about this whole wood issue.

Thanks.