Question? Mercruiser Bravo Three Sterndrive

darylwitt · Oct-21-2009, 05:50 PM

Has anyone changed out the bellows on a Bravo three sterndrive? Was is difficult? Or do you of a good shop with reasonable prices in the Long Beach area that does it?

JUST-IN-TIME · Oct-21-2009, 05:58 PM

you need 1 special tool

Double Z · Oct-21-2009, 10:51 PM

How much is the special tool?

cvjarrod · Oct-22-2009, 01:20 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Double Z

How much is the special tool?

Bravo ujoint bellows. Replacing your bravo ujoint bellows.

If it's anything like my Alpha 1, it'll be a PIA. Remove the drive to make the job a lot easier. Inspect the gimbal bearing and alignment while you have it off. Here's the alignment info.

Sterndrive Information, tools, manuals and Mercruiser Parts Mercruiser Engines

bigbrownbuku · Oct-23-2009, 01:05 AM

you dont need any special tools. just a 5/8 socket wrench and wrench a big flat screwdriver a phillips screwdriver and a 5/8 allen wrench or driver. a long 5/16 nut driver will also help i usually use my 1/4 drive socket wrench and extensions. a good back also a must cause the bravo 3 is heavy.
1. adjust the trailer height so the drive skeg is about a 2x4 of the ground.
2. trim the drive up and pull the speedo line.(yellow tab thing in front of the front cav plate anode, turn it and pull it)
3. trim the drive down and remove the trim pin, note which side the trim pin spacer was on - white plastic thing might fall out when the trim pin is removed(some models dont have it)
4. remove the 6 nuts holding the drive on and pull the drive.
5. remove the trim sender and the trim limit sender from both sides of the gimbal ring
6. remove the 2 5/8 allen bolts holding on the helmet, PULL GENTLY ON THE HELMET ONLY SLIGHTLY.(the drive is bolted to the helmet the helmet pivots in the gimbal ring.)remount the trim and trim limit senders temporarily to prevent them from getting damaged.
7. undo the front clamp on the bellows, steer the drive to port for better acces to the clamp.
8. with the big flat screwdriver lever out the ring holding the bellows in the helmet, just destroy it the new bellows comes with a ring. it bends easily.
9. use the same screwdriver to gently lever the bellows away from the transom housing, its glued on with contact glue.
10. push the bellows in off the helmet and remove the bellows through the top gap you made by pulling it out slightly. DONT PULL THE HELMET OUT VERY FAR.
11. clean up the bellows mount on the transom and helmet with some acetone, apply bellows adhesive to the new bellows and transom only, let dry.
12. squeeze the new bellows in the top gap created, be gentle and dont pull the helmet too far. attach to the transom with the new clamp.
13. steer the drive straight and refit the helmet pins with loctite then refit the senders, adjust later.
14. pull the bellows into the helmet over the small bump so it is seated(both bellows bumps go past the helmet bump) and push the new hold down ring in by hand, use the smallest smear of grease if its stiff.(thats what she said...)
15. remount the drive trim pin and speedo. tech tip - use a 1/2 inch long socket extension to wedge the helmet out slightly by sitting it behind the helmet on the gimbal wings before you mount the drive and use plenty of lube on the shaft......turn the props as you install it also to line up the shaft splines.
16. if you use new orings from the bravo 3 mount kit on the drive shaft it might be hard to install the last inch because the new orings sit a little to pround to squeeze into the gimbal bearing, just use a good old fashioned boot to persuade it the last inch.

the reason i mention a few times not to pull the helmet too far is because of the lube line from the transom plate to the helmet, you can see it from the starboard side running from the transom to the helmet, the nipple on the transom is only plastic and will break if you pull the helmet too far, just pull it enough to squeeze in the new bellows.

cvjarrod · Oct-23-2009, 09:01 AM

How do you check the alignment without a special tool?

bigbrownbuku · Oct-23-2009, 09:05 AM

you do need an alignment bar to check the alignment. i usually just eyeball the splines, if there is plenty of grease on the shaft when i remove the drive and it comes easy and the female splines are nice and fat there is no point, especially on an older boat. on a new boat when im the first or second guy to pull the drive, no question, check the alignment.

cvjarrod · Oct-26-2009, 11:35 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bigbrownbuku

you do need an alignment bar to check the alignment. i usually just eyeball the splines, if there is plenty of grease on the shaft when i remove the drive and it comes easy and the female splines are nice and fat there is no point, especially on an older boat. on a new boat when im the first or second guy to pull the drive, no question, check the alignment.

One last question.

Last time I changed the bellows in an Alpha 1, it was a major PIA. How much easier would the bellows expansion tool make this job?

bigbrownbuku · Oct-26-2009, 08:21 PM

the bellows expansion tool is only for the exhaust bellows and you dont really need it.
no way around it alpha bellows sucks balls. a shortcut would be to not remove the shift cable just disconnect it at the riser bracket and remove either the metal collar or cabletie on the shift bellows to slide it out easier. also a little prayer that the last dude that installed it put the band clamps in the right spot. snap-on make a great little 1/4 drive 5/16 knuckle socket that helps too. the water tube hose is plain and simply a pain.
ive tried many ways to leave as much connected as i could but its just easier with only the shift cable still attached. if you are replacing your exhaust bellows squish the aft band clamp slightly to match the shape of the helmet port.

cvjarrod · Oct-27-2009, 10:15 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bigbrownbuku

the bellows expansion tool is only for the exhaust bellows and you dont really need it.
no way around it alpha bellows sucks balls. a shortcut would be to not remove the shift cable just disconnect it at the riser bracket and remove either the metal collar or cabletie on the shift bellows to slide it out easier. also a little prayer that the last dude that installed it put the band clamps in the right spot. snap-on make a great little 1/4 drive 5/16 knuckle socket that helps too. the water tube hose is plain and simply a pain.
ive tried many ways to leave as much connected as i could but its just easier with only the shift cable still attached. if you are replacing your exhaust bellows squish the aft band clamp slightly to match the shape of the helmet port.

Thanks for the input. I've got one more season left before I need to tear her apart again.

JUST-IN-TIME · Oct-27-2009, 03:02 PM

so yes you need a tool