Painting Aluminum

tunajeff · Jan-10-2005, 06:02 AM

Any one painted Aluminum?
Was told the process goes like this
sand (DOSE NOT HAVE TO BE TO METAL)
wash, paint with zink cromate, sand lightly then apply two part appoxy

roxfisher · Jan-10-2005, 07:18 AM

Jeff,
when preparing aluminum for painting, use either a wash primer, or a DTM coating. (Direct to Metal). Make sure when using the wash primer, or zinc chromate primer, or even a zinc phosphate primer to dust off the surface prior to painting. 2 component epoxies are fine, but they do have single component epoxies. Make sure you get the proper primer and top coat to indicate for metal. The zinc chromate and zinc phosphates are corrosion inhibitors. Some top coats are incompatible with phosphates, so it is best to use a primer that is specified with the particular top coat you are using. Clean the surface with a solvent, (don't use paint thinner as it is too oily, use a naptha) use a rust converter if there is any rust, or if no visible rust is seen, use a rust converter and rinse within 30 minutes and allow to dry. If a rust converter is used, brush away any loose powder, then prime and top coat. Don't allow the rust inhibitor set out in the weather for a long period before priming and painting, as it is not a coating and will not protect from flash rusting. Need any more paint advice, let me know.

JUSTJACK · Jan-10-2005, 08:11 AM

All of the above.....and we've had excellent results by using white vinager to 'etch' the raw metal surface before doing anything. Works to keep the primer/paint from pealing down the road..... JJ

roxfisher · Jan-10-2005, 09:09 AM

White vinegar is acedic acid, and will etch the metal. Be sure to neutralize the vinegar wash, or rinse really well then dry immediately. A rust converter will work better if there is some corrosion or flash rusting, (surface). Any etching actually pits the surface, microscopically, giving the surface "tooth", meaning microscopic "hills and valleys" that the top coat and/or primer can adhere too. Glossy/smooth surfaces do not allow a new coating to adhere very well, unless it is like top coat to like surface. The only exception to this are coatings that can be re-wet by themselves, ie lacquers. In California, there are not many of the old style coatings available, so proper etching/deglossing of a surface is necessary.

**Jason** · Jan-13-2005, 12:24 AM

Jeff use a "paint brush or roller" They sell them at the hardware store. Otherwise you could pay more for it to get sprayed. Lots of prep work that way.

I know you wouldn't be the one working on the boat anyway. Your just an inspector. Make Curt or Brandon read the how to...

tunajeff · Jan-13-2005, 04:49 AM

YOu sould have seen Brandon yesterday, By the end of the day he was full of greese and all kinds of shit!!! actually im going to paint the tower myself
its all preped the plan is primer today and LP tomorrow

**Saluki** · Jan-13-2005, 05:13 AM

Jason, :FU:
I only do electrical work, yesterday I checked Jeff's "shorts" looks like we only have one small problem

.

**Jason** · Jan-13-2005, 08:27 AM

Lol