Am I going to have a very bad day?

BG6.7Cummins · Dec-18-2008, 07:09 PM

If i where to add wood knees how would i attach them to the transom bolt throught it? screw to it? after looking at it and digging in and grinding this after noon i don't think that it is as bad i i thought.. but maybe im wrong and this is a start of a major problem .. i dont even know how long its been like this..

138 · Dec-18-2008, 07:14 PM

You would move the knees wider than the plates. If you would like you can call me and I will help talk you through this. I have done more than my share of transom work. Just pm me and I will give you my number. It will be pretty fast to figure out your problem. I just hate to type.

BG6.7Cummins · Dec-18-2008, 07:16 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 138

You probably do not what to hear this but here it goes. If you would like to do this right you need to cut out the floor 3 or so feet in front of the transom and re-tie the transom into the stringers with knees of some kind. I would suggest laminating plywood to the transom and attaching it to the stringers. That is a lot of weigh on the back of the transom and it need to be supported by the stringers and the rest of the boats integrity. I could be wrong but you will not know if the transom is still connected to the stringers until you tear up the floor. With the floor out you will also be able to inspect the transom to make sure it is not rotten where you have attached the new offset bracket. You will also be able to strengthen the transom with more aluminum further to the bottom of the boat if it is not rotten with the deck out. Just my worthless 2 cents, Good luck.

I have a hatch i can see the bottom it LOOKS to be fine to cut the deck out i would have to cut my storage bins (cooler out) ect major work that that rate i dont know i hate to keep dumpin cash in a pit lol

i guess only time will tell when i get knee deep in her.

138 · Dec-18-2008, 07:22 PM

I was looking at that but it looks like someone 5200 the connection point. 5200 flexes a lot more than glass should that may be what is make the deck crack. Yes I understand I have 4 money pits, and keeping them floating is a pain in the ass.

138 · Dec-18-2008, 07:46 PM

From our conversation it does not sould like you have that big of a problem if I can help just give me a call.

BG6.7Cummins · Dec-18-2008, 07:47 PM

thanks Carl good luck on that bed....

sickcat · Dec-18-2008, 08:02 PM

138 has a good point to check the stringer to transom connection.

That hatch in the deck in front of the rear compartment is not helping the integrity of the deck any. What is under that hatch they you need access to? Also from the pic where you peeled the glass off the transom to expose the wood in the transom it looks like that is very poorly bonded. From the pic it looks like there is no wood fibers that pulled off with the glass - bad!

How is the underside of the deck supported back by the transom? Instead of putting knees from the stringers to the transom if there is no support from the stringers to the deck back by the transom I would put rectangles that go from the stringers up to support the deck and that tie into the transom. Glassed in to tie it all together. If you tied the stringers to the deck in front of that hatch (if it is not already) that would help strengthen the area around the hatch. Problem is that there doesn't look like much room to work.

In addition to what I said here I still think that the suggestions in my last post are a good idea. Grind that junk off of the transom and floor and put glass a strip to tie the deck to the transom then use a strip twice as large over that and finish with a layer of glass that covers that whole area of the transom and goes down over the deck. Also glass the joint between the transom and the vertical joint on those box compartments. It looks like the vertical joint on the starboard side is cracking from the deck up in the pic. Those boxes add considerable strength to the whole transom assembly if they are joined together well. Trash those aluminum backing plates off the bracket bolts and replace them with the largest stainless plate that you can fit.

Since the transom configuration has been swapped over to hold a bracket and you don't really know the quality of the work IMO you should bite the bullet and put the time and effort into making it as strong as you can at this point. Failure offshore is not an option.

sickcat · Dec-18-2008, 08:05 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BG6.7Cummins

If i where to add wood knees how would i attach them to the transom bolt throught it? screw to it? after looking at it and digging in and grinding this after noon i don't think that it is as bad i i thought.. but maybe im wrong and this is a start of a major problem .. i dont even know how long its been like this..

Grind it well and use epoxy resin with biaxial glass. 2 or 3 layers with each piece of glass larger than the last.

BG6.7Cummins · Dec-18-2008, 08:08 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by sickcat

138 has a good point to check the stringer to transom connection.

That hatch in the deck in front of the rear compartment is not helping the integrity of the deck any. What is under that hatch they you need access to? Also from the pic where you peeled the glass off the transom to expose the wood in the transom it looks like that is very poorly bonded. From the pic it looks like there is no wood fibers that pulled off with the glass - bad!

How is the underside of the deck supported back by the transom? Instead of putting knees from the stringers to the transom if there is no support from the stringers to the deck back by the transom I would put rectangles that go from the stringers up to support the deck and that tie into the transom. Glassed in to tie it all together. If you tied the stringers to the deck in front of that hatch (if it is not already) that would help strengthen the area around the hatch. Problem is that there doesn't look like much room to work.

In addition to what I said here I still think that the suggestions in my last post are a good idea. Grind that junk off of the transom and floor and put glass a strip to tie the deck to the transom then use a strip twice as large over that and finish with a layer of glass that covers that whole area of the transom and goes down over the deck. Also glass the joint between the transom and the vertical joint on those box compartments. It looks like the vertical joint on the starboard side is cracking from the deck up in the pic. Those boxes add considerable strength to the whole transom assembly if they are joined together well. Trash those aluminum backing plates off the bracket bolts and replace them with the largest stainless plate that you can fit.

Since the transom configuration has been swapped over to hold a bracket and you don't really know the quality of the work IMO you should bite the bullet and put the time and effort into making it as strong as you can at this point. Failure offshore is not an option.

well said... there is extra wood two layers that tie into the stringers for the deck around the hatch.. that hatch get me to my wash down pump and bait tank pump and my through hulls and my b. pump...

BG6.7Cummins · Dec-18-2008, 08:08 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by sickcat

Grind it well and use epoxy resin with biaxial glass. 2 or 3 layers with each piece of glass larger than the last.

ok i was woundering that i start small and work my way out.. is biaxial glass just the cloth glass?

sickcat · Dec-18-2008, 11:01 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BG6.7Cummins

ok i was woundering that i start small and work my way out.. is biaxial glass just the cloth glass?

Biaxial has fibers that cross at a 45 degree angle compared to regular cloth where the fibers cross at a ninety degree angle. You can get it with mat attached or not. Mat is the random fiber stuff. Biaxial makes the strongest joints.

BG6.7Cummins · Dec-20-2008, 09:05 PM

fixed 'er all up .. three new layers of glass...