Anti syphon valve help. - Page 2

Bank Robber · May-11-2008, 08:26 AM

Yep the cost of fuel is starting to change my fishing choices and that pretty much sucks! I may look into that single diesel change over in a year or two. Any performance numbers on that combo Bogii??

Sorry Andrew, just checked the lotto numbers and no extra 20k....maybe next week

Dirtguy · May-11-2008, 08:38 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by sickcat

Anti syphon valves are put in so if the fuel line is leaking the tank won't dump into the bilge. Think engine compartment fire. Most production boats have them nowadays. Not sure but I am guessing that it is a AYBC standard.

Thanks!

MIght check with Earl's or Russell or Jegs for something like that too. Might be called an "anti-drainback valve."

Even Grainger would have an industrial part that would do the job, maybe.

DG

piperca · May-11-2008, 08:48 AM

Dean, I looked into the single option, but was told that it changes the center of gravity of the boat. I guess the boat was designed for twins. When you move the weight of the twins into the center of the boat it throws the geometry off and makes the boat extremely tender. There are a few boats running around with this configuration, but, according to the guy that's doing the work on my boat, it's not the best choice.

I looked at the D3-160 option, but a couple of things solidified my choice to stick with gas. Firstly, of course, was the price; I was looking at spending an additional $26K ... that's huge! The price of diesel is more than gas and, to get the benefit of the MPG savings, I'd have to use the boat weekly for years and then there is no guarantee I'd break even ... that is not me. Secondly, I found out that the D3-160 is not that great a setup. I received feedback that Volvo have had nothing but problems with the setup and, for me to be completely happy, I should go with the D3-190 version. For those who want to argue this point, I'm only repeating what was told to me when I looked into it. So now I'm looking at uping the price by about another $10K for the D3-190s, which is completely out of my ballpark.

Bottom line is that for under $20K I get my boat repowered with gas engines and, if I sell it, I get my investment out of it. If I invest the $50-60K for diesel, I might, given the right buyer, get my money out of it (not in this climate), but only maybe. I have to believe I can buy a whole lot of gas for that $30-40K savings. If I was using the boat commercially, this would be a no-brainer, but I'm not ... just food for thought!

Outlawman · May-11-2008, 09:39 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by piperca

Dean, I looked into the single option, but was told that it changes the center of gravity of the boat. I guess the boat was designed for twins. When you move the weight of the twins into the center of the boat it throws the geometry off and makes the boat extremely tender. There are a few boats running around with this configuration, but, according to the guy that's doing the work on my boat, it's not the best choice.

I looked at the D3-160 option, but a couple of things solidified my choice to stick with gas. Firstly, of course, was the price; I was looking at spending an additional $26K ... that's huge! The price of diesel is more than gas and, to get the benefit of the MPG savings, I'd have to use the boat weekly for years and then there is no guarantee I'd break even ... that is not me. Secondly, I found out that the D3-160 is not that great a setup. I received feedback that Volvo have had nothing but problems with the setup and, for me to be completely happy, I should go with the D3-190 version. For those who want to argue this point, I'm only repeating what was told to me when I looked into it. So now I'm looking at uping the price by about another $10K for the D3-190s, which is completely out of my ballpark.

Bottom line is that for under $20K I get my boat repowered with gas engines and, if I sell it, I get my investment out of it. If I invest the $50-60K for diesel, I might, given the right buyer, get my money out of it (not in this climate), but only maybe. I have to believe I can buy a whole lot of gas for that $30-40K savings. If I was using the boat commercially, this would be a no-brainer, but I'm not ... just food for thought!

For whatever it's worth, I whole-heartedly agree with your statements. As you know, I have twin 350's and while the benefits of diesel repower are still great, the cost to the recreational boater are too high to recoup. Better to buy someone elses repower if going to diesel, IMO.

JUST-IN-TIME · May-13-2008, 10:15 PM

you can use a switch to shut off fuel
ant-siphons are the lazy man's switch

read up on it at the USCG web site

piperca · May-14-2008, 07:38 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JUST-IN-TIME

you can use a switch to shut off fuel
ant-siphons are the lazy man's switch

read up on it at the USCG web site

So the shut off valve is sufficient anti-syphon protection? I was under the impression you needed the protection while underway. If you had a line rupture, your bilge wouldn't fill up with gas while the engine is running ... am I misinterpreting the code?

Dirtguy · May-15-2008, 07:30 AM

Got a link for the actual site/code?

(Lazy man's Google)

DG

Reads that as long as the fuel line goes above the top of the tank, you're good. So a "rise" or higher portion of the line before it goes to the carbs is good. I' referenced my install and the carb inlet is above the tank top. And my electric pump has the valve.

JUST-IN-TIME · May-15-2008, 07:36 AM

http://uscgboating.org/regulations/regulations.htm

http://uscgboating.org/safety/boatbuilder/fuel/fuel.htm

piperca · May-15-2008, 03:47 PM

My reading of the codes is correct:

"TO COMPLY WITH THE LAW

Is the fuel distribution line above the fuel tank top level?

If not, is an anti-siphon device or an electrically operated fuel stop valve installed at the fuel tank withdrawal fitting?

If not, is an anti-siphon device or an electrically operated fuel stop valve installed at the point where the fuel distribution line goes below the fuel tank top level?"

In my application, all of the fuel line, after the tank, drops below the top of the tank, then climbs back up to the fuel pump; therefore, it is necessary for me to install an anti-syphon valve.