Bloodydecks.com - View Single Post - Need help replacing my trim/tilt cylinder on my 1990 Volvo Penta 290DP

FishWiz · Jun-26-2006, 02:24 PM

Depends on how much room you have between the engine and the transom plate. I built a make-shift tool to remove mine, and it wasn't easy, with the engine out. I'm sure no fun with engine in.

There is a ~10mm flanged bolt next to the pin on each side, that acts a retainer for the pin. Remover flange bolt. The pin is threaded in the middle, so the make-shift tool I made was a long threaded bolt with various double-nuts and progressively larger washers so I could thread the bolt in a ways over an appropriate sized box-end wrench, and use the box-end wrench as a lever against the transom plate. Takes awhile because you have to unthread it and keep adjusting/tightening the double-nuts to adjust the leverage, pulling the pin out, about 1/2" at a time or so.

The goal being to replace the o-rings I assume? I ordered new pins and o-rings and cleaned out the holes with a dowel and 600 grit paper.

If all that made sense, surprised. Probably would take pictures to show it any better, but didn't take any of that part of my engine R&R last winter.

Jun-26-2006, 02:24 PM	#2 (permalink)
FishWiz Registered User Name: GAB Vessel: 26' Blackman, The Reel One Location: San Diego Job:I.T.	Re: Need help replacing my trim/tilt cylinder on my 1990 Volvo Penta 290DP Depends on how much room you have between the engine and the transom plate. I built a make-shift tool to remove mine, and it wasn't easy, with the engine out. I'm sure no fun with engine in. There is a ~10mm flanged bolt next to the pin on each side, that acts a retainer for the pin. Remover flange bolt. The pin is threaded in the middle, so the make-shift tool I made was a long threaded bolt with various double-nuts and progressively larger washers so I could thread the bolt in a ways over an appropriate sized box-end wrench, and use the box-end wrench as a lever against the transom plate. Takes awhile because you have to unthread it and keep adjusting/tightening the double-nuts to adjust the leverage, pulling the pin out, about 1/2" at a time or so. The goal being to replace the o-rings I assume? I ordered new pins and o-rings and cleaned out the holes with a dowel and 600 grit paper. If all that made sense, surprised. Probably would take pictures to show it any better, but didn't take any of that part of my engine R&R last winter.