Bloodydecks.com - View Single Post

Mo Betta · Jul-18-2003, 10:44 PM

Hey Brad, I would check to make sure everything else on your hull is sound, stringers, transom etc etc. Then find out what a new IO and a diesel IO would run.

I did the conversion myself. I got the Hull cheap without a IO or lower unit. Call Stainless Marine in Florida, talk to the techs and let them know what your plans are. They will send out a measure sheet and build what you need {set back, flotation are all terms they will go over with you}. Mine was about $700.00

You cannot just bolt this bracket on. You need to beef up the transom. Each boat is different, mine needed thickness and 2 very large knees connected to the stringers the engine was mounted on. The filling of the IO hole is pretty basic, get the WEST SYSTEMS manual, you will need it. Dont use anything else to bond to existing fiberglass, its really the only thing that works.
Wear skin and dust protection, over time you can become hyper sensitive to epoxy dust.

After you get the transom smooth and flat its time to mount the bracket. They give you a template, just tape it up and drill. bolt up the bracket and seal with 5200. Get a engine hoist, and mount the motor using the middle holes, seal the engine bolt holes with sealant. Steering cable needs a hole and a extra long calble, so do the engine controls. You will need to play with the engine height to get it right, {trial and error} only takes 20 minutes to change the height.

This is the really simple version. Im know I left things out, but it will give you the basic idea.

PRO's : Rides like a bigger boat, no engine hatch to step over, the whole back deck is flat. Old engine compartment is now a huge strorage area. NO OPEN TRANSOM to take a wave and swamp the boat.

CONS : Lots of work. If I couldnt do it myself, I wouldnt of done it, I have more sweat equity, then Boat dollar equity. Other then that, I loved working on it.

Jul-18-2003, 10:44 PM	#4 (permalink)
Mo Betta Offshore Prop Changer Name: Frank Age: 43 Vessel: 25' Wellcraft sportsman Location: El Cajon Job:Contractor, Kit/Bath Bio: Grew up on Guam	Hey Brad, I would check to make sure everything else on your hull is sound, stringers, transom etc etc. Then find out what a new IO and a diesel IO would run. I did the conversion myself. I got the Hull cheap without a IO or lower unit. Call Stainless Marine in Florida, talk to the techs and let them know what your plans are. They will send out a measure sheet and build what you need {set back, flotation are all terms they will go over with you}. Mine was about $700.00 You cannot just bolt this bracket on. You need to beef up the transom. Each boat is different, mine needed thickness and 2 very large knees connected to the stringers the engine was mounted on. The filling of the IO hole is pretty basic, get the WEST SYSTEMS manual, you will need it. Dont use anything else to bond to existing fiberglass, its really the only thing that works. Wear skin and dust protection, over time you can become hyper sensitive to epoxy dust. After you get the transom smooth and flat its time to mount the bracket. They give you a template, just tape it up and drill. bolt up the bracket and seal with 5200. Get a engine hoist, and mount the motor using the middle holes, seal the engine bolt holes with sealant. Steering cable needs a hole and a extra long calble, so do the engine controls. You will need to play with the engine height to get it right, {trial and error} only takes 20 minutes to change the height. This is the really simple version. Im know I left things out, but it will give you the basic idea. PRO's : Rides like a bigger boat, no engine hatch to step over, the whole back deck is flat. Old engine compartment is now a huge strorage area. NO OPEN TRANSOM to take a wave and swamp the boat. CONS : Lots of work. If I couldnt do it myself, I wouldnt of done it, I have more sweat equity, then Boat dollar equity. Other then that, I loved working on it. Attached Images __________________ Frank "The Offshore Prop Changer"